A Glimpse At Puerto Armuelles - January 2017

blue skies at the beach
I had the beach all to myself

Jan. 26, 2017

I just got back to town a few days ago.  

I immediately remembered why I love Puerto Armuelles so much.

On my very first morning, I went to the beach at Corazon de Jesus on for a swim.

Morning At the Beach

I had been told that the November rains were heavy this year and that there was still a lot of drift wood on the beach.  However, to my eyes it looked pristine and beautiful.

I had been away for over three months this trip.  I had been spending my days in a very cold, grey, and rainy Seattle, so I was not aware of anything other than a perfect morning at the beach.

I was the only one out.  The gentle curve of the beach was an empty crescent. Just the sand, nearly mirror flat, the early morning ocean, and I.

I took a short swim, which was plenty. (Note to self: I am really out of shape). But, man did I feel wonderful! The water was probably a warm 80 degrees, or so.

Visiting

After swimming, I decided to go visit some of my neighbors on the beach.

There are several ex-pat residents in the Corazon de Jesus neighborhood.  I was especially interested in talking to a couple of these folks who are doing construction on their homes using local contractors.

I enjoyed hearing about their experiences with the various contractors and sub-contractors.  I will write about what I learned in a future post.

New Faces & the Puerto Bug

In the few days I've been back in Puerto Armuelles, I am noticed a number of new northern faces.

One woman, who had just ended a Panama relocation tour, made a special visit to Puerto.  She said that she heard about Puerto Armuelles on our site, and wanted to check out for herself.

She says that she has "caught the Puerto bug".  We’ll see if she decides to join us in Puerto soon.

Several of our visitors have visited Puerto more than once to “check it out” and are now expressing interest in buying. Most of our recent buyers are either from Canada or from northerly parts of the US.

A few folks have decided to rent homes in Puerto, rather than buying.  Hopefully more rentals will continue to come on the market to meet this growing need for long-term rentals.

Del Monte

Some big news is that Del Monte may finally be coming to Puerto to start up banana production this June 2017.   At least this is what the news media here tell us.

My most skeptical Panamanian neighbors here say they will only believe Del Monte is coming when they have peeled and eaten a Del Monte banana that was grown in the soils of Puerto Armuelles.

We all hope Del Monte really does come to Puerto. The town will benefit from the mostly working class jobs that Del Monte will provide.

Tipping Point

However, as far as the arrival of ex-pats and any tourist industry here are concerned, I do not think that Del Monte will have much effect.  I believe we have passed the “tipping point” and growing appeal of Puerto Armuelles to expats and Panamanians alike is certain.  It is already happening.

But don’t believe me: Come visit and see for yourself.  Who knows? You might “catch the Puerto bug” too.


You can learn more about Puerto Armuelles here.

close up of a bowl of chicken soup in Panama
If you see Sancocho on the menu, order it. Delicious.

Sancocho is Panama's national dish.

There are versions of sancocho throughout Latin America, but it is particularly beloved in Panama.

At heart, Sancocho is a delicious stew that you could have at breakfast, lunch or dinner.

Many claim the soup is even the perfect tonic for a hangover.

A local Panama chef believes that culantro is the secret weapon for a good sancocho.

Culantro is the flavor you’re going to find in sancocho, even more than the chicken."  It’s our traditional dish. It’s the flavor of Panama.”
- local chef Francisco Castro.

Sancocho Recipe

Cook time: ~1.5 hours

  1. 1 chicken, cut into pieces
  2. 1 Tbsp. oil (your choice)
  3. 3 garlic cloves, pressed
  4. 2 Tbsp oregano
  5. 1 tsp black pepper
  6. 1 tablespoon oregano
  7. 4 Tbsp culantro*, chopped (plus some leaves for the rub)
  8. 1 large onion, chopped into bite-size pieces
  9. 3 pounds of starchy vegetables.  I'd recommend using both ñame and yuca.  Other options are otoe and green plantains.**
  10. Small calabasa (squash) - chopped***
  11. 1 carrot, chopped
  12. 2 ears corn, broken into 1" pieces (note, the corn is Panama is not sweet and much tougher than found in North America)
  13. 3 tsp salt (to taste)
Instructions
  1. Start by killing the chicken. Okay, you don't have to do that. But many locals go out in the yard grab a gallina de patio (chicken of the yard), kill and pluck it.  You can buy a chicken from the store.  But in Panama you can also purchase one from any house with a "vende gallina de patio" (or just, gallina de patio) sign out front.  They will kill and pluck it for you. Keep in mind that these free range birds are tougher than you may be used to eating.  They need to cook longer.
  2. Cut up the chicken - keep the bone in during the cooking process.  Often the soup is served with the bones. It is common for people to eat the bone marrow once they are done with their soup.
  3. Rub the chicken with culantro leaves
  4. In a big pot, add water and chicken pieces. Make sure the water covers the chicken - and a bit more. Bring to a boil.
  5. Peel the root vegetables and cut into bite-size pieces.
  6. Add all the veggies and spices. Bring to boil again.
  7. Once it boils, remove the foam that is floating over the top.  Lower the temperature to a medium simmer. Cover it loosely with the lid. Let it to simmer for about 45 minutes. At this point the ñame will be done and breaking apart, this will help thicken the broth.
  8. Cook until everything softens. Keep adding water so the veggies stay about an inch under water.
  9. Stir in salt to taste.
2 big pots of Sancocho cooking over open fires
The open fire adds a desirable dash of smoke to the Sancocho

Serving Suggestions

To eat it the Panamanian way, serve it along with white rice on the side. You can either mix the rice into the soup or take a bite with each spoonful. It doesn’t matter, they do both.

Sometimes the soup is accompanied by patacones (fried plantains) as well.

Notes
  1. * If you can't find culantro, chopped cilantro leaves and stems can be used.
  2. **Any root vegetables can be used in a pinch, including potatoes, parsnips, turnips and carrots. The root ñame (yam) is similar to yuca (cassava). It will make the soup thicker since it dissolves. Beware when peeling ñame as it exudes a milky sap that is slightly slimy.
  3.  ***Calabasa (squash) is more commonly used in the Chiriqui province
  4. Tip: Add more vegetables to serve more people.
  5. Some people believe the best way to cook Sancocho is over an open fire (fogón).  That way it picks up a hint of smokiness.  It is the traditional way to cook.
  6. Sancocho only gets more flavorful with time. It also freezes well.

Regional & Color Differences

The soup’s ingredients may vary , but almost all of Panama's Sancocho varieties share one characteristic: they are rarely spicy.  Typically, Panamanians aren’t fond of spicy foods.

  • Sancocho in Panama City are often usually light brown in color because of the variety of root vegetables used.
  • Sancocho chorrerano (made in the town of La Chorrera, outside Panama City) is a spicy exception, made of only chicken, onions, garlic, chili peppers, oregano and ñame.
  • Sancocho chiricano (made in the Chiriqui Province) contains a laundry list of ingredients, including squash.
  • Sancochos that are heavy in culantro have a bright, fresh flavor and a green hue.
  • A sancocho that is yellow or orange means it has alot of squash/pumpkin (calabasa) in it.

More Sancocho Tidbits

  • It is said that you should eat sancocho for lunch on a hot day to help cool off.
  • Panamanian sancocho originated in the Azuero region
  • Sancocho is a popular national dish found throughout Latin America – each country puts its own spin on it.

Do you make Sancocho at home?  How do you make it?  Tell me below.

sources:
images of heart rate and SSA check with text
If your SSN ends in 00-49, you should have sent in your form this year (2016)

Over 200 Americans in Panama will not get their US Social Security checks next month (Feb. 2017).

This is because those folks didn't file the required "proof of life" form.

So if you didn't turn in your form, your February 3rd, 2017 check will be suspended.

Don't worry, you can get your benefits reinstated.  Start with an email, as I explain below.

Keep in mind, most people only need to submit this form every other year. (See submittal requirements below)

Who Has To Fill Out The Form 

Do you receive benefits from the US Social Security Administration (SSA)?   Then you were required to submit a Proof of Life form in 2016, if you meet any of the conditions below:

  • Beneficiary with a representative payee, or
  • Beneficiary aged 90 and over, or
  • The last 2 digits of your SSN are 00 - 49

(note: If your SSN ends in 50 -99, you must submit the "Proof of Life" form in 2017, not 2016)

When Were The Forms Mailed

In May/June of each year these forms are sent to the mailing address you have on record with the SSA.  A second request is mailed in October.

This is why it is important to keep your address updated with SSA.

To Reinstate Benefits

If you were required to submit your proof of life form to SSA in 2016 but haven't, you should e-mail the Federal Benefits at [email protected] .

Ask for them to email you a "Proof of Life" form and instructions on how to get your benefits reinstated.

More Information

I have written more extensively on the required SSA Proof of Life form in a previous post.

Please Comment Below

photo of the culantro and cilantro plants with text
They have a similar taste, but culantro is much stronger.

Culantro and cilantro look very different, but they have a similar taste.  

However, culantro has a stronger flavor than cilantro with subtle sweet undertones and a stronger smell.

Culantro is used extensively in Panamanian food.

Availability Differences

It is easy to find culantro in Panama, cilantro is harder to find.

I can almost always find culantro growing wild in small patches in my yard. It grows in both shade and sun. Sometimes they also sell it in the market and, I've recently been told, you can also sometimes find dried culantro in grocery stores here.

If you are looking for it in the US, Canada, or Europe, you may be able to find it in Asian or Hispanic markets (especially Vietnamese, Thai, Puerto Rican or Dominican Republic markets).

If you want to use cilantro in Panama, your best bet is to grow it yourself.  Although, as you will read below, that is not an easy task.


Worldwide, culantro is known by many names: recao, long coriander, ngo-gai, spiritweed, black benny, recao de monte, false coriander, spiny coriander, among others.


More Differences

Leaves

Cilantro leaves are small and lacy like parsley leaves.

Cilantro leaves grow on stems that are several inches above the ground.

Culantro leaves are long and spiny like dandelion leaves. It's leaves are also much tougher than cilantro leaves.  They can grow up to 10 inches long.

Culantro leaves grow in whorls that form at the base of the plant.

Flowers & Propagation

Culantro's flower stalks also have spines. The spines on both the leaves and the stalks become quite sharp as the plant matures.  The flower blooms at the top of what looks like a green straw.

This flower will produce seeds.  These seed can be used to grow new plants, although, in Panama culantro is self-seeding. It can also be grown from cuttings. Culantro can grow in poor soil with little fertilizer. They are hardy, prefer partial shade, but tolerate full sun.

Cilantro flowers are white and lace-like on a long stem.

Cilantro is not a hardy plant, especially in the tropics.  Cilantro is particularly hard to grow in the tropics since it doesn't love heat, but needs to grow in full sun.  Cilantro can only be grown here in the cooler months. (For more on Panama climate)

Harvesting

I send my girls out to pick some culantro leaves when I need them.  But if you lack children, you can pinch off or cut the leaves at the soil line with scissors.

Leave the newer leaves for use in future meals.  Be careful of the spines when gathering the leaves.

Differences in Use

Because culantro has a much stronger flavor, it is usually added during the cooking process.  If you want to put it in a salad, cut it into thin ribbons; otherwise use cilantro.

Culantro is a common ingredient in food in Panama.  For instance, it is typically one of the main ingredients in a guiso (or sofrito), an aromatic blend of herbs and spices used to flavor many beans, fish, meats, rice and stew dishes.


Guiso.  There are a lot of variations of guiso (also know as sofrito throughout latin america).  In Panama it is usually called guiso and often consists of a blend of culantro leaves, onion, garlic, fresh tomatoes, and sometimes non-spicy small peppers .  Conveniently, you can make it in advance and refrigerate or freeze it for later use.


Cilantro is more likely to be eaten raw in ceviche, salsas or as a garnish.

Conclusion

If you are going to live in Panama, culantro is a herb you will learn to love.  Unless, you are like my younger daughter and detest anything that even hints at the taste of cilantro.

Please comment below.

sources:
Chef Zee Cooks
The Raices Cultural Center Blog
Homeguides
Healthy Latin Eating
beach background with text about Living In Panama Info Book
Click image to download

This pdf contains many affordable beach properties for you to explore.  

It includes links to get more photos and information on each property. 

You will also find a map of Puerto Armuelles with photos on it too.

If you are looking at property, it is worth your time to check out these hand-picked properties.

If any of them spark your interest, feel free to call or email us with your questions or to schedule a tour.

Click to download the pdf.

 

image of hand holding tiny house on purple background
Tiny or small homes are great option for 2nd home, vacation home, or rentals

The notion of living in a “Tiny” home or basic shelter has been around for centuries.

Ascetic monks from the 15th century and earlier have written about the spiritual benefits of casting off the extraneous luxuries of society and getting back to the bare necessities of life.

The ascetics felt that only without encumbrances and distractions is man truly able to achieve spiritual grounding. Only by practicing simple daily rituals can one enjoy a meaningful life.

Henry David Thoreau got back to basics at Walden Pond in Massachusetts in the 19th century and wrote extensively about the beauty and spirituality that filled his days.  Thoreau was quite outspoken in his criticism of common “city dwellers” who were distracted by too much of everything.  Of course, Thoreau who lived in the 1800s had no way to imagine the distractions that man would face by 2016. My wife Betsy is quick to point out that Thoreau was a frequent visitor of his mother’s home around mealtime, and that he sent his laundry out to be washed.   (I guess it’s tough to be a perfect ascetic).

The early 19th century Irish Poet and academic William Butler Yeats spent many hours “living alone in a Bee loud Glade” in a tiny cottage on the Lake Isle of Innisfree in County Sligo. Many of his poems are situated at this, or other “sacred” natural places. Yet, he also taught writing at University in Sligo, and had a very complex life as a university administrator, husband, father, and community member. For Yeats, a simple thatch hut was a respite from the stresses of day to day living.

The current revival of the small, or “tiny” houses can be attributed in large part to the vast popularity of architect/writer Susan Susanka’s 1998 book “the Not-so-Big-House”.   In her book, Susanka asks the basic question of “why does it need to be so big?”

After all, the average size of the North American family has been shrinking since World War II. Yet our houses have been steadily growing. In 1950, the average US home was 1000 square feet. In 1960, it had grown to 1200 square feet. By 1990 it was 2000 square feet. In 2016 the average new home built in the US was just over 2,400 square feet. The only nation in the world with larger homes is Australia where the average sized home built in 2016 was 2,500 square feet.

How did we evolve from a family of four in the 1960’s that fit into a 1200 square foot home, to a family of 2.5 that requires twice as much room? Are we happier now that we have all this room?

Most studies show that the overwhelming reason for the “super-sizing” of North American home has mostly to do with our ability to afford it. Simply put, North Americans have a lot more money than we had back in 1960. In a market driven society, all that money needs to be spent on something. Why not buy a bigger house?

 

The modern day iteration of the truly “tiny” house evolved from this rethinking of house size that followed on the heels of Susan Susanka’s best selling book.  In fact, these days we even try to define what the limits are for each category of small house.

  • Tiny house =  80 and 400 square feet
  • Small houses = 400-1000 square feet.

Experience with Tiny Houses

As I mentioned in a previous article, I have lived in a shipping container in Alaska for 2 summers. At 8’x40’ the 320 square foot container was the perfect “tiny man cave” for warming up and sleeping after a long, long day of commercial fishing. However, I would not consider this amount of space (especially the 8’ ceiling height which felt really low) to be a space that I would have appreciated in any other context.

Even my 262 square foot studio apartment in Seattle’s University District where I lived during graduate school, was much a more pleasant space.

This apartment had been carved out of the second floor hallway and a corner room of a hundred year old craftsman house. It had huge windows, and nearly 10’ ceilings. It was much smaller, but it was a perfect city apartment for a busy student on a budget.   An added bonus was that my landlord really didn’t care what I did to my unit, as long as I asked first. So, I cut an interior opening between the kitchen and the bedroom to get a view and some daylight into the kitchen/desk alcove. I also installed a new shower and tiled the bathroom.

Rising Interest In Tiny Homes

With the insane rise in home prices in Seattle, and other similar cities, many people, especially the young and retirees on a budget are revisiting the Tiny home concept in order to continue living in the cities which they have come to love and appreciate. Not everyone has an extra $2000 to be able to rent a studio apartment. Many do not want to move out to the suburbs and spend their day commuting to and from the city.

There is a loophole in the maximum housing density law in Seattle which allows Tiny homes to be located on residential property, provided that the home is equipped with functional tires and a trailer hitch. In other words, these “homes” must fit on the roadway and be moved from the property from time to time (I am not sure how often).  In other words, the Tiny homes allowed in Seattle are really more like wood framed trailers. As such, the sizes are quite standardized, in order to conform with the building codes as well as the transportation codes. Being so standardized is, from a design standpoint, pretty boring. Most Tiny Homes tend to look alike, sort of “cookie cutter” versions of one another, just with different window treatments, siding materials, and of course, interior finishes.   However, the good news about this standardization of size and form is that these tiny houses can be factory built and delivered to your home site pretty much anywhere in the US.

Tiny Homes as Vacation or Rental House

We have had a few inquiries in recent months from folks who already live in Boquete, or in other highland areas of Chiriqui who are curious about what it would take for them to park a trailer, or mobile home on an affordable lot on or near the beach, to use for long weekends, so that they could get their “beach fix” without the having to stay in a hotel.

To my mind, the tiny house concept might be the perfect solution for those who just want a semi-permanent “camp” at the beach that is always waiting for them. I have not priced shipping containers lately, but I think that a shipping container base/secure storage locker could be used as the construction locker/storage unit for beach chairs, bar-b-q, surf boards, etc…so that there would be no risk of break-in in the event that one didn’t have anyone watching the property.

The tiny house, as a short-term accommodation is also a natural rental unit. Many short-term guests to the beach don’t have much luggage, no possessions, and they don’t need much space. Rentals in Puerto are still tough to find. As such, rental rates in Puerto are high. I think it is just a matter of time before some enterprising builder begins to produce tiny homes as rental houses.   We have had a couple of calls from guys who have experience building pre-fab homes and tiny homes, already. It is not out of the question that we, ourselves, may build a tiny home or two on one of our properties, so that our clients will have a pleasant place to live while they explore Puerto Armuelles.

Our Ideal Tiny Home Is Bigger

After all our recent researches of tiny homes, Betsy and I are drawing the same conclusion that many others have arrived at before us. That is, Tiny Homes could be just the ticket as a weekend retreat, or a short-term rental.   Tiny Homes seem like an amazing business opportunity.

However, when I consider designing a retirement home for my wife Betsy and myself, a small house feels better than a tiny one.  I know that I would breathe a little freer in a slightly bigger space than the sub-400 square foot size which defines the truly “tiny” house.

If I had to throw out a number, my own personal ideal size dwelling for a single person would probably fall in the 600-800 square foot range. For a couple, I would think 800-1200 square feet would do well. This allows room for one to be alone for awhile to study, meditate, or practice a musical instrument, without disturbing one’s partner.

Living In Panama House

The Living in Panama House is probably not the final and “perfect” solution to the idea of living a big lifestyle in a small house in the tropics.  However, it is the best that I have been able to come up with so far.  Believe me, I have given this a lot of thought. I consider the Living in Panama House to represent an honest attempt at a “Not So Big Tropical House”.

As we have been refining the Living in Panama House design, our model has grown a bit, and shrunk a bit. But we keep coming back to about 500 square feet of finished, potentially air conditioned space. This “module which contains the two bedrooms, bath, and a small hallway, is all housed within the “umbrella” of a big sheltering roof. The three-bedroom model is about 650 square feet enclosed.   The total square footage of the first model home (two or three bedrooms) is approximately 1,500 square feet.

The Living in Panama house is a bit bigger than my ideal house size for North America, because we think that it is beneficial to have a bit more covered space in the tropics to allow one to enjoy an open, breezy feeling, since it can get hot here. Also, we have more “hang out” time in Puerto Armuelles than we have in Seattle where one just doesn’t have much time to enjoy being at home. So, we end up using our house more here. Betsy and I will undoubtedly adjust the size of the Living in Panama House up or down over time, depending upon feedback we get from clients.

Tiny Home Builders Wanted

If you have any interest in building tiny homes in Puerto Armuelles, we would be happy to help you get started. Drop us a line.  There is certainly room for competition in our untapped housing market.

Jan 1, 2017

yellow image with text about cost of building a house in Panama
How much it cost to build a house, depends alot on you. What kind of house do you want?

I get asked that question all the time.  Or more specifically,

“How much does it cost/square foot to build a house in Puerto Armuelles?”

I always feel reluctant.  I want to give a definitive answer, but it is complicated.

"What will it cost to build", is a hard question to answer anywhere, not just in Panama.

The answer depends upon what kind, size, and quality of house you are building.

Basic vs Fancy House Costs

If you build a fancy house, with lots of expensive materials (expensive windows, doors, custom fixtures, etc.) it will cost a lot more than a very basic house. It won’t cost just 10%, or 20% more. Building a fancy house can cost 2 to 10 times more than a very basic house.

In Seattle, circa 2016, building a basic house costs about $200 per square foot. A house with expensive finishes can cost $250 to $500 per square foot (I am not kidding). And it goes up from there. An architect-designed, custom timber-framed, Japanese tea house or fancy outdoor sauna building on the lake could cost over $1000 per square foot

Cost of Building in Puerto Armuelles

In Puerto Armuelles the answer is the same: it depends upon what kind of house you are building.

Fancy Houses

On the high end, there are wealthy expats who have had homes built on the beach by local contractors.  They can easily spend $100/sq ft and more.  This does not include the cost of the land.

More Basic Houses

On the other hand, in Puerto Armuelles we have several expats who have been their own contractor and have also done a lot of the work themselves. These folks have completed their projects for under $35/sq ft. Granted some of these homes lack much of a design concept since the owner-builders had not built before. However, the owner/builders appear quite pleased with the results.

Cost of Construction - Chiriquí Province

I have done a brief survey of costs recently. I took into account my conversations with builders and owners. (As I drive around the Chiriquí province, I often stop by construction sites to chat.) I have also done the usual online research that is available to all of us. Based on these sources, I have concluded the cost figures below.

Cost per Sq. Ft Range

  • A Panamanian built 1500 square foot, 2 bedrooms, 2 bath home in the usual Panamanian style costs between $70,000 and $85,000 or $50-$56 per square foot.
  • An article by Inside Panama that I recently read, puts the cost per square foot for typical construction in Panama at $80-$90 per square foot.
  • In Boquete, CMRW Construction’s Carlos Rivera gives a quote of $70-$90 per square foot for “average” construction.
  • Manzar Lari, at Casa de Montana construction, has a broader range of $70-$120 per square foot.

Cost Depends Upon The Finishes

As I read the descriptions of the different grades or qualities of construction available at the various price points, one thing is quite familiar.  Just as in the US, the big difference in the cost of construction is in the finishes.

Finishes include:

  • Roofing
  • Tile
  • Appliances
  • Plumbing fixtures
  • Windows
  • Doors,
  • Countertops

The finishes vary greatly in price.  The cost per square foot for the structure of the house does not vary nearly as much as it does for the finishes.

Living In Panama House

People understandably want to know how much it will cost to build a house in Panama.

The Living In Panama House has the advantage of being designed by an architect specifically for Panama's tropical climate.

The Living in Panama house is an entire “rethink” of the concept of “home” in the tropics. The Living In Panama house is mostly an open-air living concept. This open-air structure, with just a portion totally enclosed, means that only a small section of the house requires the full complement of finishes. With this type of design, you eliminate the need to pay for extra windows, doors, air conditioners, insulation, or cabinetry. Not that you don’t have those finishes, but fewer of them are needed.

Because of this savings, the Living in Panama House, can be built, including finishes, for between $56 and $80 per square foot. This is a huge saving.

The structure of the house, without finishes, costs an estimate of $30 per square foot for the 2 bedroom model and an estimate of $38 per square foot for the 3 bedroom model.

Conclusion

The cost of building anywhere in Panama varies.  The biggest variable is your choice of finishes.

Summary of cost/square foot (including finishes)

  • Basic DIY type - $35 -$45
  • Basic Panamanian style  - $50-$56
  • Living In Panama house - $56-$80
  • Average Western-style - $70-$120

I hope this helps to answer this popular question.

Related House Construction Info

We have written about remodeling, various construction materials, and alternative housing types. Click on any of the links below to read an article.

Please share your experiences with the cost of building a house in Panama.  Use the comment section below.  Thank you.

I discovered a video (below) I took of my family in 2007.  

It gives a glimpse at an enjoyable lazy hammock day near our home in Panama.  A day that could easily be replicated today - except maybe for the baby monkey.

[leadplayer_vid id="58506DB07FEED"]

If you are interested in visiting Mono Feliz, visit their facebook page for more information.  I have also written about Mono Feliz on my site.

You can visit Mono Feliz via a road (which is soon to be paved most of the way) or, my favorite way, by driving on the beach.  You must time your journey with the tides.

We have visited Mono Feliz from Puerto Armuelles both as a day trip and for multiple nights.

You can learn more about Puerto Armuelles starting here.

Video Transcript

Betsy: Hi, it was a lot of fun stumbling across this video is of us back in 2007.

It gives you a relaxing glimpse of life in Panama

It's a little baby monkey, she's 4 months old,called Niña, a howler monkey.

We're at Mono Feliz in Panama, Punta Burica.

Reyn: We're relaxing and the stresses of daily life.
Our house is actually being sprayed for termites,as we speak, so we had to vacate it for the weekend.

They sprayed it with a mix of diesel and ariva, which is a commercial crop dusting chemical, so that's all going in our house so it'd be nice to let it air out for the entire weekend before we go home and sleep there.

We're here at Mono Feliz,there are small waves at the surf camp down the way
and Steve and another tourist and I were gonna try those out, so that will be fun.

Skylar: Look, look dad.

Reyn: I'm very happy and relaxed here.

It's cool.

(child laughs)

I think the monkey can actually hang by his tail.

Betsy: He's too young.

Reyn: This one is a huérfano.

Betsy: Let's say goodbye to Niña.

Bye, bye Niña, little scratcher.

Reyn: Want to compare size of hand?

music ♫ Can you hear it calling, Come on down to Panama

graphic about how to be happy in Panama
Having something you love to do is a key to being happy

We have been in Puerto Armuelles for 10 years now.

Plenty of time to observe the lifestyle habits that seem to lead to a happy life for our retired expat neighbors.

The happiest folks, share a common thread:

  • Keep active
  • Have hobbies
  • Maintain community
  • Passionate about their lives
  • Enjoy living in our beach town of Puerto Armuelles.
  • Not here because it is the cheapest place they could find to retire.

Hobbies

In this post, I will touch on some of the many hobbies you can enjoy here in Panama.

This is because an important trait among the happier set here in Puerto is that they have a hobby or several activities, that they pursue on a regular basis.

young plants growing in plastic containers
My daughter's nursery of starts in Puerto

Gardening

Many of our expat retirees in Puerto Armuelles are passionate gardeners.

Here in the tropics, it is much easier to garden successfully than up north. With many species of plants and trees, you just get a cutting of the plant you want, stick it in the ground, and it will grow.  No kidding.

For those who love to get their hands dirty in the garden, there is ample opportunity to do it here. For heavy tasks, or for general maintenance, one can have your gardener do the work.

If you like to garden, it is also easy to cultivate some of the food for the table. Many types of fruits, in particular, grow in our tropical climate. It is easy to grow papayas, bananas, mangos, pineapples, bananas, passion fruit, etc. etc…the list is long.

a toucan in a papaya tree
This toucan loved our papaya trees

Bird Watching

Gardening can easily be expanded to include bird watching. Many species of tropical birds pass right through our gardens in Puerto every day.  Huge, noisy swarms of giant parakeets careen through the neighborhood at dawn and again at dusk. We have a barred owl living in the mango tree in our yard. We have seen a tiny pygmy owl on several occasions.  We have seen a pair of toucans in our papaya tree on numerous occasions.

You can plant a garden that provides ideal habitat for birds. You can do this planting many of the plants that the birds that you want to attract to love. Add to this both feeders and bird baths and you will be visited by many tropical birds.

Panama is a bird watcher's paradise. And not just in your backyard.   You can cultivate an active life, as well as an active social life as a bird watcher.  There are bird watching clubs in Boquete, Volcan, and Panama City with scheduled outings to look for birds. Some of these outings are easy strolls, and others include extended trips to the less explored parts of Panama.

A white rabbit with chickens in background
You can easily raise chickens and bunnies in Panama

Raising Animals

Many expats raise their own chickens, rabbits, pigs, cattle for the table. Some others just like to have animals around to keep the homestead feeling “homey”.

At one point, when our daughter Skylar was interested in raising animals, we had over 20 chickens and 20 rabbits running around in a fenced off part of our property in Las Palmas. We even had a horse for a while.

Horseback Riding

Horseback riding is always available here. Many houses have properties large enough to provide feed grass for a horse, or two

walking & riding horses on the beach
Riding on the beach is especially nice. I took this photo in the San Vicente neighborhood of Puerto Armuelles.

most of the year.   In the driest months, you can let your horse out to graze nearby.  There are hundreds of miles of dirt roads and riding trails around town, some trails lead up into the foothills, and one can ride over to the beaches on the Costa Rican side of Punta Burica in half a day.

There is a woman named Veronica who lives up the hill from us in Las Palmas neighborhood of Puerto who teaches riding and who is helping to develop a national equestrian program in Panama. You can see a video she did about her life in Puerto Armuelles.

We also know at least one expat, Russell, who has joined a local rodeo team and competes in calf roping competitions on the weekends (this is not a hobby you would want to pursue unless you are an expert rider and are fearless).  A neighbor of ours raises and trains horses.

4 men hanging out on the beach with a fish they caught.
This photo is from the Hooked on Panama site

Fishing

Panama means an abundance of fish.  So there is a lot of fishing here.  You can fish from a boat, a paddle board, kayak, raft or from shore.  You can fish to your heart's content here.   And many people do.  My older daughter Skylar loves to fish.  She once caught a fish in Panama using only a piece of plastic bag as bait.

You can even splurge occasionally and go to one of the many sports fishing lodges in Panama.  One lodge, Hooked on Panama, is only 6 miles away (30 min drive) from Puerto Armuelles.

Building with statue and mosaic
This is the Bellas Artes building in Puerto Armuelles. They offer many art & music classes here.

Art

Retirement in the tropics is the perfect time to take up painting, or drawing, sculpture, or any of the visual arts. Maybe you were an artist when you were younger, and just need to break the inertia to get back to it.

Our daughter Skylar took painting and drawing at the local Centro Bellas Artes (fine arts center). They offer a number of classes for adults.  Which is also a great way to practice your Spanish since the classes are in Spanish.

Don't know where to get art supplies in Panama?  Check out this post:  Where to get art supplies in Panama City, David, and Puerto Armuelles.

If you are a budding artist in Puerto Armuelles, explore these art opportunities in Puerto.

Blues guitarist going through outdoor crowd
Lil Ed put on a heck of a show at the 2015 Boquete Jazz & Blues Festival

Make Music

If you have never played a musical instrument, retirement is a great time to learn to play for the first time.  Our daughter Skylar took up the guitar last year. I took this as an excuse to give it a try.   We are both learning online.

There are hundreds of free online courses to choose from. My family can attest to the fact that not all people are destined for greatness as musicians (Skylar is picking it up pretty fast. For me it is coming slowly).  However, it does seem to keep Dad occupied.

There are also a number of music festivals in Panama.  Our family enjoys going to the annual Boquete Jazz & Blues Festival in Boquete, Panama.

There are more and more musicians in Puerto Armuelles these days.

You may want to join the growing expat music scene in Puerto Armueles.

Dance

My daughters are both studying tap dance and ballet.  Ballet is pretty brutal on anybody, regardless of age, however, tap can be a great whole body workout for folks of any age. You can push it as far as you want.

My father had a friend named Jesse who took up tap dancing in her late 50s, and kept at it until she was in her late 80’s. She and a group of girlfriends used to travel around the east coast and perform at senior centers.

I drop my daughters off at dance class four day a week. I am meeting other parents who have decided to join their kids and take up tap dancing.

So, this week I took the plunge. I removed the taps from an old pair of throw-away tap shoes given to me by the instructor, and I used Shoe Goo to glue them onto a pair of men’s lace-up shoes.

If I decide to stick with it, I will invest in some real tap dancing shoes. Tap dancing could be the perfect hobby for this aging athlete.  It is increasingly popular as a form of exercise.  As with everything you can learn how online.  YouTube really is a fabulous resource.

young girl with a big knife and a brain cake
You can lots of great food in Panama - you don't have bake a brain cake. (my daughter Blaise & her brain cake)

Cooking

Cooking is another great hobby in retirement. There are lots of good, fresh, economical raw foods available in Panama.  And you can grow your own food as well.

Once again, I can vouch for YouTube as a great place to be inspired to “raise the bar” and improve your cooking skills.

Our daughter Blaise, who is now ten, is a big fan of Youtube cooking videos.

This morning she made waffles and cinnamon rolls. Yesterday she baked raspberry filled macaroons. For Halloween, she baked a “Brain cake”. It was a chocolate velvet cake covered with cerebral looking crenelations of sugar fondant and finished with a red raspberry glaze. The cake was truly gruesome to behold. If you could get past the looks, it was delicious.

She made these all from recipes, she learned to cook on Youtube.

Panamanian Food Opportunities

You can also explore new fruits, vegetables, and dishes that are popular in Panama.  For instance, we have written about:

You may also want to check out a Foodies in Panama group on Facebook.

Woodworking

Another popular hobby is woodworking. Several of the local expats have set up workshops in their garages or carports. One began by making all the furniture for his and his wife’s house before he graduated to making furniture for other folks.

At least one guy we know takes his craft products to the Tuesday Market in Boquete to sell (He says that this is not a path to retirement riches, but it is fun and he meets lots of nice people.)

Sculpture

Another craft hobby, that might or might not include woodworking, is sculpture using found objects, driftwood logs, coconuts, hard seed pods, etc.. There is an incredible number of one-of-a-kind natural shaped driftwood that washes up on the beach, especially in the rainy season.

One of our neighbors out at Corazon de Jesus has a collection of anthropomorphic shapes, and some others fish shaped (ichthyomorphic?), all gathered on morning walks on the beach in front of his house.

Volunteering

Volunteer work is a rewarding way to add value to one’s daily, or weekly schedule. Certainly, the happiest retirees and the happiest people that we know are those who have discovered the joy of contributing to the wellbeing of another person.

This volunteer work could be as simple as just showing up to visit or help out another older expat who needs some company. Or you might want to try volunteering as an English conversation partner. You could offer to help another expat who doesn’t have a car to do a shopping trip in town, or to David.

I’ve just scratched the surface of the types of possible hobbies and activities that could contribute to making retirement in Puerto Armuelles healthier and happier.   Please write and let us know what hobbies you enjoy, and any that you would like to investigate in your retirement.

Active Hobbies

Other active hobbies include surfing, walking, bike riding, sea kayaking. These are all hobbies pursued by a number of 50, 60, and even 70 somethings in Puerto Armuelles.

Walking and cycling are best done in the early mornings before the sun gets hot. In the rainy season, this is not so critical, since there is more cloud cover, and it stays cooler.

man on stand up paddle board in ocean
An expat on a stand up paddle board in Corazon de Jesus neighborhood of Puerto Armuelles, Panama

Surf, Kayak, Paddle Boards

Puerto Armuelles is a perfect place to try out surfing or stand up paddle boarding for the first time. Stand Up Paddleboarding, which is an easier way to get into surfing, has arrived in Puerto.

There is also one fellow who occasionally surfs on a kayak designed for running white water rivers.

There is a technology known as a wave sled ( a sit-down kayak type surfboard with a paddle) which I have not seen in Puerto yet.   This is an easier way for beginners and novices to get out and enjoy riding waves.

Little by little in Puerto we are growing a small community of old guy surfers (even a middle-aged gal or two). The waves in Puerto Armuelles are certainly not intimidating.  It is a small wave surf place.  A great old guy surf spot.

Of course, there are a number of world-class surf spots in both Panama and Costa Rica if you want to test your surf prowess.

2 people walking down dirt path in the tropical highlands
We combined hiking and birdwatching here at Jansen's coffee farm in Volcan

Hiking

The mountains of Chiriqui are a good destination for those pursuing an outdoor hobby.  It is quite easy to drive to Volcan, Cerro Punta, or even Boquete to go for a day hike in the cool mountain air.

In fact, one day I swam in the morning in the Pacific, spent the afternoon hiking in Boquete, and was back home at the beach by dinnertime.

There are some wonderful hikes and mountain bike rides to be had at higher altitudes all over Panama. We have a retired neighbor in Puerto Armuelles who belongs to a mountaineering group in Chiriqui. He is often away from Puerto Armuelles for days at a time on one adventure or another.

You can also read Betsy's post about living a healthy life in Panama.

Do you have a hobby you like to pursue in Panama?
Please share in the comments below.