February 12, 2019
As I've mentioned in previous posts, it has been a long and complex process to find a company to rejuvenate bananas as an economic force in the area.
At one time, under Chiquita Banana, bananas were called "green gold" in Puerto. But then Chiquita left in early 2000s, and a cooperative called Coosemupar took over. However, for many reasons, Coosemupar did not thrive and finally collapsed in 2010.
Starting in March 2018, Banapiña (a subsidiary of Del Monte) started planting bananas on the former Chiriqui Banana plantations. Now their first crop is being shipped to the US. Very exciting.
This first shipment will not use the old Chiquita pier in Puerto. This is because Puerto's pier is in terrible shape.
Or in political speak:
"The company decided to do a little economy of scale, because the port of Puerto Armuelles has to be adapted to use it," as the head of the Ministry of Agricultural Development (MIDA), Eduardo Enrique Carles, said yesterday.
Therefore, the bananas were trucked to the port of Caldera in Costa Rica, where Banapiña manages other production lines.
There have been many rumors that the pier will be renovated. Maybe that political speak was suggesting that as well? It is hard to tell.
Job Creation
So far, the new banana production has created 300 direct jobs and 200 indirect jobs. Over the next 6 -7 years, at least 3,000 new people will be hired.
And more jobs are only part of the banana industry's boost to Puerto's economy. The economic ripple effect of this new workforce plus all the other people needed to support the growing and shipping of bananas will spillover into Puerto and the whole province of Chiriqui.
Production of Green Gold
This year alone, Banapiña plans to export 1.4 million boxes of bananas at a rate of 15,000 boxes per week. It will be exporting these bananas not only to the US, but to the Netherlands, the United Kingdom, Germany, and other markets.
Of course, that is nowhere near the high of banana production in the 1990s when Panama exported around 42 million boxes of bananas per year, with a total export value of $ 200 million.
Panama's bananas produced for export are grown in the provinces of Bocas del Toro and Chiriqui. Over the last 2 years, bananas accounted for 15% of Panamanian exports.
Currently, Bocas del Toro's banana production has a profit of $120 million.
A major investment is underway to fully rejuvenate Chiriqui's banana production over the next 7 years.
Most likely, Baru's banana profits will at least equal Bocas del Toro's.
So it looks like our area can look forward to getting a $120 million dollar shot in the arm in the near future.
What type of bananas? So far, Banapiña has planted the Grand Nain variety of bananas. According to Wikipedia, that type is also called the Chiquita Banana because it is the banana they mostly cultivate.
As government officials are always pointing out, its investment in Baru's economy targets more than bananas.
Note: Baru is a district within the Chiriqui province of Panama. Puerto Armuelles is the principal city of Baru. Puerto is also the 2nd largest city in Chiriqui.
The government has invested in 15 projects in Baru, including the following in Puerto Armuelles.
That list doesn't even include 3 other renovation projects in Puerto.
Maybe we will get a revived pier too? Fingers crossed.
It seems clear that the economic outlook of Puerto Armuelless is looking ever brighter. From our point of view, we are experiencing a steady increase in emails, calls, and visits from people interested in moving to Puerto Armuelles.
It looks like the President's proclamation that, "Puerto Armuelles is reborn", is happening.
Back To Bananas. My daughters made a video exploring the bananas in our yard. You may want to check it out.
Bocas del Toro is very casual. Flip-flops, shorts, a t-shirt, or even a tank top is fine.
In Panama City people tend to dress more stylishly than elsewhere in Panama. Business casual is more the norm. Suits and high heels are seen more often, but overall the dress is still casual.
I know I rachet up my wardrobe - slightly - while in Panama City. Of course, all those air-conditioned places in PTY makes getting dressed up a more comfortable option.
The highland areas (eg. Boquete, Volcan, El Valle) also dress casually. However, it is warmer-clothing casual since it is cooler in the highlands. So more long-pants and jeans, as well as sneakers or casual city shoes.
Before I tell you how people dress in Panama, I will show you.
Check out the photos below. Click on any photo to start the slide show.
In general, it's good to look decent when you go out.
Yes, it is casual, but it is neat and tidy casual, not beach bum casual.
Of course, if you are simply on vacation, you can get away with dressing more casually.
However, if you are moving somewhere in Panama, it is a good idea to be presentable.
The truth is that you will likely be judged based on what you wear.
Most places in Panama are small towns, heck the whole country only has 3.5 million people, and they notice what you wear.
If you go out looking disheveled, with short shorts, or inappropriately attired, locals will notice and talk. It is always a good idea to respect the cultural norms of an area, whether you are a traveler or resident.
I'll give you an idea of what I mean by presentable.
For a few years, my daughter Skylar and her friend Bryan, who is also our Panamanian next-door neighbor, were almost inseparable. Each time Skylar and Bryan would head into town, Bryan would make a pit stop at his house. He would emerge transformed.
He would no longer be in a t-shirt and shorts. He would have changed into spotless jeans (maybe long shorts) and a polo shirt, with his hair freshly wet-combed.
Only then did his mother give the okay for him to walk or bike into town. I wish I could say Skylar had been as nicely attired.
A Tip: If you are invited to dinner at a Panamanian's house, dress appropriately. If you show up wearing shorts and a t-shirt, your Panamanian hosts probably won’t say anything, but they’re probably thinking, “how uncivilized.”
In this section, I will try to give you a general idea of what Panamanians usually wear out in public. If you want to fit into the local community, follow these general guidelines.
I am not saying that expats or travelers should dress like a local. However, to be respectful, you should dress so you don't outrage local sensibilities. And given that Panama's dress style is casual, it is pretty easy to dress appropriately.
Business Attire
Also, if you are in business, you might want to take special note of what to wear. You will be given more respect and deference if you wear long pants, polo shirts or button-down shirts, rather than shorts and t-shirts. Think business casual.
Panamanian men typically wear
Older men wear
Panamanian women typically wear:
Older women
Workers
Workers (eg., maids, gardeners) tend to arrive at work in nicer clothes, then change into work clothes. They reverse the process when they head for home.
If you will be going into any government offices know that they have a dress code.
You can be asked to leave if you do not comply.
Dress code: long pants or a knee-ish length skirt/dress/capri pants. Your shoulders must be covered. Men should wear a polo or button down shirt, not a t-shirt. Shoes must cover your toes.
If you wear shorts, flip-flops, and a tank top, you can guarantee you will be asked to leave.
I have been fine going into government offices with over the knee-capri pants, Keen sandals (which cover my toes) and a short-sleeve button-down shirt. Children wearing toe-revealing sandals seem to be okay as well.
Theoretically, banks have the same dress code. But I find it has more to do with the mood of the bank's security officer than with anything else.
I have gone into banks wearing flip-flops (but otherwise complying with the dress code) and have almost never been asked to leave. Usually, I simply forget that I am wearing flip-flops. However, if you remember, it is best to comply with their dress code.
In Panama, except at the beach, it is illegal for men to be shirtless in public. This no shirt law also applies while you are driving a car. You occasionally will see a man shirtless in public, but not often.
It is always illegal for a woman to be shirtless in public in Panama - even at the beach.
You should have a light jacket. There are many places where the air conditioning can be freezing.
Also, the temperatures in the highlands are lower, sometimes making a jacket a good idea.
Plus, elsewhere, particularly near the ocean, it gets cooler and breezier in the early mornings and evenings, especially in the rainy season. At those times, you may appreciate a light wrap.
It really is.
And WhatsApp is one more reason to get a smartphone. That is if you are someone still stubbornly holding out on getting one.
Find out about your cell phone options in Panama
WhatsApp is a messaging app that allows you to send and receive:
Free, But Need Internet
In order to use WhatsApp, you do need wifi or data on your phone, but otherwise, it is free.
And it is not limited to your phone. You can use WhatsApp on your computer too.
Encrypted & Secure
Also, WhatsApp uses end-to-end encryption so your communications are secure. Not even WhatsApp's employees can read the messages that are sent across its network.
In Panama, it is common to see WhatsApp contact numbers everywhere from business cards to advertising campaigns. People not only use it to message their friends, but also doctors, lawyers, plumbers, and maids.
In the US, a common expression is "Google it". In Panama, it's “Mandeme un WhatsApp”, the Panamanian equivalent of "give me a call".
WhatsApp groups are another good reason to use the app. WhatApp groups are very popular.
For instance, my neighborhood in Panama has one. There are also WhatsApp groups for expats in my town of Puerto Armuelles (and in most towns). It is a great resource to get questions answered, to announce get-togethers, to ask for help, and more.
A Tip: Make sure you turn off the auto download setting. If you don't, all the images shared via these groups will automatically be saved to your camera roll. You can still save the ones you want.
Voice Messaging
Voice messaging is a very popular way to communicate via Whatsapp. You will often see people with their phones in front of their face, talking into the phone. They are sending voice messages.
Myself, I much prefer the voice to text function - for both sending and receiving. I'd rather read a message at a glance, esp since you cannot listen to voice messages just anywhere, at least not without headphones. Although, it is nice to hear a person's voice sometimes.
WhatsApp is not only popular in Panama, but in most of the world. Its initial attraction was due to SMS text fees.
In the US, texting usually is unlimited and is packaged with your cell phone service plan. But in many other places, the fee for texting is an issue. Which is where Whatapp's free service steps in.
Since it started in 2009, WhatsApp has become the primary social network in many countries, including Panama, Brazil, India, and in large parts of Europe.
It is so popular that you will often see advertisements from local cell phone carriers offering free data for WhatsApp use. It undermines their own texting services, but it entices people to chose their company for data.
You know it is a WhatsApp number if it starts with a plus sign (+).
A WhatsApp number follows this format:
+ then country code then cell phone number.
About Phone Numbers in Panama: There are no area codes in Panama. Cell phone numbers in Panama are 8 digits long and always start with a 6. Landlines are 7 digits long.
Here is some information that is helpful to know before you download and set up your WhatsApp app.
Your WhatsApp number will be whatever your cell phone number is at the time you download and set up the app. If you download the app in the States, it will be your US phone number.
As long as someone also has WhatsApp, they can WhatsApp your WhatsApp number regardless if they are in the US, Panama, or Egypt - for free.
How To Change Your WhatsApp Number
If you want, you can easily change your number on WhatsApp. For instance, say you put a new SIM card into your phone when you get to Panama. You can choose to make that your WhatsApp number, not your US number.
To change your WhatsApp number, simply open WhatsApp, click settings, then Account. You will then see an option to "change number". Follow the simple instructions.
It is easy and has no repercussions.
You do not need to notify all your contacts to let them know you changed your number. It is seamlessly done. They can continue to contact you at your US WhatsApp number and you will receive it. They never need to know you changed it. Your text threads will remain unchanged. (However, if they have never Whatsapped you on your old number, I believe they need to use your new number to successfully contact you.)
No Need To Change Your WhatsApp Number
The wonderful thing is that you can still use your original WhatsApp number, even if your cell phone number subsequently changes.
I switch SIM cards when I go to the States and again when I go back to Panama. This means that although my phone number changes, my WhatsApp number stays the same regardless of which country I am in. Unless I decide to manually change it, as I explain how to do above.
Whether you are traveling or moving to Panama, it is a good idea to come armed with WhatsApp on your phone. Download it today.
And, just as important, ask your friends and family back "home" to download it too. That way, you can continue to communicate with them via your phone. It will almost be like you are still there. Well, except that you will be in a tropical paradise, and they won't.
In future posts, I will discuss other essential apps to have in Panama
Don't forget to read about your cell phone options in Panama.
My daughters explain how to preserve your bananas and more in the video above.
Betsy: Welcome to the 2nd video in our "Fruit in Our Yard" series.
By the way, our yard is in the charming beach town of Puerto Armuelles, Panama.
We are producing these videos in alphabetic order.
Join us as my daughters show you the Bananas In Our Yard.
[I'm Betsy from Living in Panama, the place for information and advice on being an expat in Panama. Interested? Click subscribe, and hit the bell. So you don't miss a video.]
Skylar: These are the bananas in our yard. They're a little past their prime on the tree.
We've been picking them slowly.
Normally, if you wanted to preserve the entire bunch and ripen them at your leisure, you would chop it here and hang it from a sort of a rafter or any high place you have. Then put a bag around it to protect it from the birds that might want to get at it before you.
Blaise: And what you can also do is, you can leave actually them on the tree and get some mesh bags to cover it.
And as you can see, some ripen at different times.
These are very small, just starting. These are green and these towards the top get more sun and are ripe. Like here, they are ready on this side.
Skylar: Yes. These here have been all picked and some of them have been eaten by birds.
Blaise: Like these and that.
Skylar: This is what happens when you don't preserve the bunch. So if you wanted to preserve it, as we said, you put a mesh bag around, either on the tree, or take it off and hang it somewhere for it to ripen.
[Note: you can use plastic or any other opaque bag to cover ripening bananas in order to keep birds from eating them.]
They usually ripen better off the tree actually.
Blaise: And we can show you one is still green. It has not been covered, over in our front yard.
Skylar: Okay, so this is across the yard from the earlier bananas that we showed you. But these are not quite ready to be picked or even for the birds to want them.
It's quite a beautiful bunch, honestly.
Blaise: As you can see, up there, it is starting to ripen a little bit on the higher branches.
Betsy: Where? Oh, yeah.
Blaise: You can see a little yellow. And so that is normally the time you should probably start bagging.
Actually, if you remove some of the leaves above it, it can help it as well.
Betsy: Help it what?
Skylar: Ripen more quickly of course.
Blaise: And grow.
Skylar: Yeah.
Blaise: And in the next video we'll probably be showing you how to use bananas and plantains in dishes.
Skylar: Yes, how to cook your bananas or plantains - for beginners.
Skylar & Blaise: Bye. Thank you for watching. Subscribe. And like. And share with anyone who might be interested. And click the notification bell. Have fun.
Betsy: Please click the link below for more information about Puerto Armuelles. Thanks for watching.
Our next "Fruit In Our Yard" video will feature the cashew tree.
We are raising our property prices on March 16, 2019.
On average, our property prices will increase by 10%.
NOTE: Back in November, we posted about a property price increase to occur on January 15th.
However, we did not announce the January 15th price increase to our Newsletter subscribers until January 1st.
In response to our Newsletter subscribers, we have delayed the increase until March 16th.
Even with the price increase, we will continue to offer beautiful, high-quality properties - at some of the lowest prices around.
1. - For over a decade, property prices all over Panama have been going up.
Meanwhile, Puerto Armuelles, hidden away in the Northwest corner of Panama, has not seen those same price increases.
Puerto Armuelles is now hitting its stride to catch up with the rest of Panama. Consequently, real estate prices in Puerto are starting to go up.
2. - Property Upgrades. For over a decade, we have continued to make improvements to our properties. This means that we can offer you the best planned, best maintained, most attractive, properties in Puerto.
3. - Rising Costs. The cost of various types of permits, infrastructure, and maintenance has been going up.
4. - Buzz about Puerto Armuelles. For the past 2 decades, ever since Chiquita Banana pulled out, Puerto has been generally ignored. No longer. There has been a noticeable uptick of new people, esp. foreigners, spotted in Puerto Armuelles. This spike in interest goes beyond just visitors and retirees. There is also a significant push by Panamanians to develop more space for shops, restaurants, and offices.
5. - Puerto is getting more services. Renovations of existing services, as well as the construction of new public services, are at an all-time high in Puerto Armuelles. 4 significant civic projects are currently underway. (see below)
6. Arrival of Del Monte. Since Del Monte Foods arrived in Puerto Armuelles, about a year ago, there has been a big uptick in interest in our town, both by investors and prospective retirees.
Del Monte is a sign of better economic times to come. Not only will Del Monte's banana operations provide significant annual revenue to the city, but they will be cutting regular paychecks for many residents.
7. Return on investment looks very good. The Republic of Panama continues to attract investments from all over the world, particularly from China. More and more of that money is showing up in Puerto Armuelles.
It is clear that Puerto's dark ages, after the departure of Chiquita Banana, are in the past, and the "Puerto Armuelles' Renaissance" is moving forward full speed ahead.
We will make no official predictions, however, it would not surprise us if Puerto Armuelles provided retirees, investors, and 2nd home buyers with the biggest returns in all of Panama. Time will tell.
Have you been thinking about buying a property from us? Then take another hard look in the next 2 months, before the price increase - or before your lot is sold to someone else. Our real estate price increases go into effect on March 16, 2019.
If you have questions, please feel free to contact us.
Have you visited Puerto yet? Why not buy a ticket and come on down this year? Let us know you are coming and we will give you a tour.
You will never know if Puerto is right for you until you visit.
Do you currently have a property on Reserve? Or are you making payments on a property? In either case, these price changes obviously do not apply to you. However, they do indicate that you can easily sell your property for more than you paid for it.
Reserve one of our properties before March 16th, you will freeze the current price for 60 days.
Anyone else who wants to buy a property after March 16th, will have to pay more.
It is fast, easy, and inexpensive to reserve your property.
The reservation fee is only $1000, and it is credited toward the property purchase. The 60-day price freeze starts the day the hold fee is received.
Learn more about reserving a property here.
2018 has been a big year for Puerto Armuelles. And 2019 promises to be even bigger.
Portenos Unidos Para Perros (P.U.P.P.) is a group of Expatriates and Panamanians working together to help reduce the street animal population.
By helping to eliminate homeless dogs and cats, PUPP's efforts will radically reduce disease and suffering by both homeless and owned animals in Puerto.
I think their acronym, PUPP, is fabulous.
The whole name, in English, is Porteneos United for Our Dogs. (Portenos is what people from Puerto Armuelles are called. )
PUPP's goals are to:
In the short term, and in collaboration with DogCamp Boquete and Amigos de Animales, PUPP will hold 2 low-cost sterilization clinics in Puerto Armuelles, Panama. The first clinic takes place on January 12th.
PUPP's Clinic Goals
They created the go-fund-me plea so they can make the clinic visit free to all those who could not otherwise afford to sterilize their animals.
One of the dedicated PUPP Expats, Nicole, told me:
We are in amazing shape. I am so excited about what this could mean to the health of our animal community.
On why she is committed to PUPP, she said:
I have a hope that one day people won't associate our community with starving, suffering animals. That we will no longer feel the heartache of seeing Puerto's animals suffer.
To help Puerto's dogs and cats, please contribute any amount you can afford, even if it is just $5. Click to visit their go-fund-me site.
All the info you need is found in the poster displayed at the top of this page.
An English translation of the poster is below.
The group, Portenos United For Our Dogs, in collaboration with Dog Camp Boquete-Panama, and Amigos de los Animales Boquete-Panama - (with help from ceinxcientoportenos.com) Invites you to a sterilization clinic for your pets.
When: January 12, 2019.
Place: Puerto Armuelles's Municipal Gym
Time: 8am - 3pm
Cost: $15 for dogs, $10 for cats.
To Register: Visit Agropecuaria Don Merce (on Calle Estudiante), Sherri Pet (Barrio Nacional) or by Whatsapp 6358-5621
(*Not mentioned on the poster: Your contribution to go-fund-me means the procedure will be free to the many local Portenos who cannot afford it.)
Where are the locations mentioned the poster?
In Panama, you will see many dogs roaming without leash, collar, or owner. Most westerners will assume that all these dogs are homeless. But that is wrong. Many of these dogs are owned, even lovingly owned.
Taking your dog for a walk is a newer concept in Panama. Generally, dogs walk themselves in Panama.
However, in Panama City, it is now against the law to let your dog roam free. You must use a leash. So the dogs you see there are more likely to be homeless.
In some ways, a free-roaming dog has a much better life. Some Panamanians think of their dog only as a guard dog. Not as a pet. They will chain them in the yard 24/7. Not such a great life.
However, freely roaming dogs can also easily pick up many of the diseases common in the street dog population. And of course, if they are not sterilized, they also add to the homeless population by mating with female street dogs.
Like the fairly new leash law in Panama City, attitudes towards dogs and cats are changing in Panama. They are being seen more like pets than simply an animal who serves a purpose (eg., guard dog or a rat-catching cat).
One way you can see the changing attitudes towards dogs is the popularity and growth of dog shows in Panama. (Watch a video of Puerto Armuelles 2nd annual dog show competition.)
Furthermore, many Panamanians are reluctant to neuter or spay animals. Many think it lessens the value of a guard dog if he is neutered since it makes him less aggressive and decreases his tendency to bark.
Also, people with dogs, esp. prized dogs, often sell the litters. We purchased one of our dogs that way since our daughter Skylar really wanted a puppy. For those folks, that income will dry up if the dog is spayed. However, attitudes toward sterilization of pets are also changing, although more slowly.
PUPP is not alone in caring about the animals of Puerto.
For years we have had a monthly sterilization-focused animal clinic in Puerto. It is run by Voluntarios Por Los Animales – Puerto Armuelles.
This clinic is organized by local Portenos who want to help our animals. A vet from David comes each month to examine pets as well as sterilize street dogs.
You can find out more about Puerto Armuelles' monthly animal clinic in this video.
The Voluntarios Por Los Animales – Puerto Armuelles monthly clinic has definitely improved the health of our animal population. However, they cannot transform the health of the population alone.
PUPP's collaborative effort to have at least 2 mass sterilization campaigns in Puerto will make the efforts of our on-going monthly clinics even more effective.
You can be part of making the dogs and cats of Puerto healthier and happier. Help fund PUPP's Clinics.
The clinics will be free to those who cannot pay.
Most likely you saw people standing in the water, chest deep, waiting for a wave to come. They would body surf the wave in, or simply jump up and over the wave while shrieking with glee.
Then, once in a great while, you may have noticed - way, way (way) out there - beyond the breaking waves, the steady stroke of an arm.
And you realize that there is an actual human being out there in the ocean. All alone. Swimming!
“Yes! By God! It’s one of those lunatics - an open-ocean swimmer.”
If you are like me, you may have thought:
By this point, you are beginning to relive scenes from the movie Jaws. Your eyes have glazed over and you are breaking out in a cold sweat, as you imagine that it is you out there in the water about to be eaten. Finally, you must force yourself to stop thinking about it altogether.
Since arriving in Puerto Armuelles in late 2006, I have revisited these fears, as well as other prior, harsh judgments about ocean swimmers and ocean swimming. This was actually forced upon me.
You see, I am by nature a daily exerciser. I can get by without exercise. However, I definitely feel my happiest, most optimistic when I exercise a moderate amount every day. Ideally, for 20-40 minutes a day, sometimes a bit more.
For the 1st decade we were in Puerto Armuelles, I surfed. That is, whenever there were waves. Generally, there is surf here about 1/3 of the mornings, 5 months of the year.
(FYI: surf season in Puerto is usually April thru October, although we can have a swell in other months.)
Surfing was not a moderate amount of exercise for me. I was already in my late forties when I took it up, and I rode a pretty shortboard, which required a lot of paddling effort. Also, I would usually get so interested (aka “obsessed with”) catching “just one more wave” that I could easily find myself in the water for 2 hours or more if the waves were good.
For some people, this is not too much exercise. For my aging body, it was definitely a lot of exercise, certainly more than I required for health and happiness. Although, after an early morning of good surfing, I always felt wonderfully relaxed.
Even before I phased out my daily surfing, which happened about a year ago, I relished the days without any waves. Then I would go for a casual swim and give my body a bit of a break. (I still haven’t completely quit surfing, because surfing is really, really fun!)
I swim for the fun of it, as opposed to surfing which, although very fun, was also “my other job”. If you talk to surfers, you will find that many of us are the same. Surfing is not just for fun - it is a daily need. (It is probably not that different from smoking crack cocaine. Except that we don’t hang out on the street corners and surfers generally look like fit athletes, rather than addicts.) The bottom line with surfers is that if we don’t get our quota of waves, we quickly begin to suffer withdrawal symptoms. We just can’t enjoy our day as much.
Swimming for me is a lot less of an addiction. It is more of a daily meditation practice. For me, swimming is about the journey and not about the destination. I suppose, if I took swimming seriously enough, it could also become a “job”. But I don't want to make it into that.
What I find is that ocean swimming in Puerto is the absolute easiest way for me to get into touch with the present moment. To just “be” with myself, and with nature.
What makes Puerto Armuelles such a good place to start ocean swimming?
If you look at my list of the things that seemed so unnatural about the “lunatic open ocean swimmer” in my earlier description, you will notice that I mentioned:
Fortunately, none of these inconveniences is present here in Puerto Armuelles.
1). The water in Puerto is always bathtub warm (78-85 degrees Fahrenheit)
It is amazing just how big a difference it makes to swim in warm water. The experience is not intimidating, or alien. You feel as if you belong in the water, as if you were born there…and if you think about it, you were.
2) The water is shallow
Because of our gently sloping sandy beach and the fact that we have no waves for much of the year, you only need to wade out into the water a bit over knee deep in order to start swimming.
If you swim parallel to the shore, you never have to swim in water that is over chest deep.
To me, this is reassuring. Although I have spent a lot of time in deep, dark cold ocean water, I have always found it a little scary. Those are the places where sharks hang out waiting to eat a seal or sea lion. I have always been very careful not to let my mind wander too far into “What if?” when in those deep cold water.
I must admit that I feel most comfortable in warm water about waist deep, or not much deeper than I am tall. Thankfully, the little swathe of the ocean where I swim, right in front of Corazon de Oro is the perfect depth for me.
3) No man-eating (or woman-eating) sea creatures.
A few years ago, when I was still kiteboarding, I did a brief study of shark attacks in around Puerto Armuelles. I wanted to know just how big a risk I was taking every time my kite went down offshore, and I had to swim in.
To my great relief, I found that there has only been one recorded shark attack near Puerto Armuelles. (However, the story has been retold so many times that you would think that a 100 people had been attacked and eaten, just last week).
The story that I heard goes like this. A man diving for conch was attacked by a large shark about 30 years ago out at the tip of Punta in about 65 feet of water. According to reports, the man lived for years after the attack and continued to dive for conch.
Please note: Punta Burica about 10 miles away from Puerto Armuelles. It is by the open ocean with rocky ledges that drop off abruptly from shallow reefs, to open ocean 100s of feet deep. Diving for conch every day, day-in-and-day-out, for a lifetime, in the deep open ocean, is quite different from swimming a few yards off a sandy beach for 30 minutes each morning. All the locals in Puerto, with whom I have spoken, agree that they have never, ever seen a shark, (ever). There are certainly no recorded shark attacks at any of the beaches in Puerto Armuelles.
4) The beach is usually sandy & the early morning ocean is often flat.
It makes walking out into the water more pleasant. You won’t need any special footwear.
It also makes it easier to swim. Especially in the summer, the water is flat as glass in the mornings. (In Puerto, they say flat as “espejo”, which means a mirror). Which is very pleasant.
This perfectly flat water makes stroking and gliding much easier. Perfect for any swimmer. And especially easier for someone just getting started with salt-water swimming.
5) Salt water is wonderful.
Not only does it make you feel healthy (no chemical aftertaste). It also makes you more buoyant. This means that even a skinny guy like me can float, at least a little bit.
Plus the salt water makes it much easier to swim well. You won't be struggling to maintain a neutral, horizontal position in the water. You can more easily find that “sweet spot”, or ideal balance in the water.
If you are skinny, like I am, wearing a slightly buoyant rash guard or wetsuit top, as I do, will make it even easier.
6) You will most likely have the beach to yourself
The beaches in Puerto are often empty of people. Which means, if you are a shy beginning swimmer, there is no one out to judge you. (Plus, if you are around my age, you most likely have realized that no one is watching you anyway—-and they never were. We just thought they were.)
7) No chlorine!
If you have tried to swim in a pool, but were unable to tolerate the intensity of all that chlorine, you will appreciate the complete absence of it. It is so nice!
8) Quiet and in Nature
Indoor swimming pools are NOISY! It is deafening to be in such a large space where every surface is hard and reflective.
I find the noise, the cold, the chlorine, and the total absence of nature, to be big detractors from the experience of at most swim pools. It is a totally different experience when you swim in the ocean.
After years of swimming in Puerto, I still favor swimming on my back for long stretches of time. It is a lot more relaxing. I don't have to think about coordinating my breathing with my strokes.
Plus, an added benefit of swimming on my back is staring up at the sky. I can enjoy watching nature, for example:
I have had some incredible moments when I am just suspended there “in the zone” while swimming parallel to the beach. This is a magical, meditative time for me. I am just being. The world is the star of the show. I am simply taking time out to observe, gratefully, a tiny slice of it.
How did I get started? I suppose as with most things I’ve done, I just started.
At first, I was terrible. But I didn’t give up. Then, later, I learned a little bit about what I was doing, and my efforts began to pay off.
Of course, this is all relative. I am still not a great swimmer. However, I enjoy swimming, and I think that I am still improving, little by little. Swimming well is not a preoccupation for me. The main thing is that I am able to participate in this great activity. That is all that I really wanted out of swimming.
Google is your friend
Now, it is likely that you are different than I am. You probably want to learn how to be a competent swimmer, before you start swimming in the ocean. (It’s okay. I get it. Following a logical course of action is an admirable quality.)
If you want to be a better swimmer, faster. I recommend that you do the same thing you would do if you wanted to learn anything. GOOGLE IT!. There is all kinds of information about getting started swimming, swimming for adults, triathlon swimming, and thankfully, even open ocean swimming for beginners.
So, just hit your computer, and do some “armchair swimming”. I actually believe that you can learn a ton about swim technique, just by watching online videos.
If you break what you learn down into small “chunks” and only practice one technique at a time, you will be amazed at how much you will improve.
As you browse the available information online, you are bound to come across a swim course called Total Immersion Swimming. A friend of mine told me about it years ago. After swimming in Puerto, I finally signed up for one of their weekend swim classes, during one of our visits to Seattle.
After taking this course, my friend participated in iron-man competitions, which includes a 2.4-mile swim, a 26.2-mile marathon, and a 112-mile bike race. I am in awe of anyone who can sustain that level of intense exercise. But, I was blown away when he said that he was able to keep up with “the pack” at the front of the race in the open ocean swim, despite the fact that he had never swum on a team in high school or college. “How the #$%@!#$ do you do that?”, was my obvious question. "Total Immersion Swimming", was his response.
A friend of Betsy’s sister, who took the course with me, improved greatly after taking the course too. Upon completing the course, she began to regularly swim across Seattle’s Lake Washington, and back (over a mile), with a group of similarly skillful swimmers.)
What I learned from Total Immersion Swimming
My own improvement after taking the Total Immersion Swimming weekend intensive was far more modest than my friends. But, I learned a lot from their weekend course. Most importantly, I learned a handful of techniques that gave me a standard to shoot for every time I swim. However, my execution, particularly my ability to breath efficiently is still very much a work in progress.
The part where I felt the most growth (not surprisingly, this is also the part that I like best) was the ability to sense whether my body was in a state of balance in the water. I had never before thought of swimming as balancing my body in the water. This concept alone, without any swimming techniques, is reason enough to be grateful for taking the course. Balancing one’s body in the water is amazing!
When you see a video of yourself swimming at the beginning of the weekend course, you can’t believe you were not swimming in what you thought was a very horizontal position. You were actually swimming in a half horizontal, half-vertical angle. That is you were swimming at a 45-degree angle through the water - dragging half the water in the pool along with you. No wonder you feel exhausted after just a few minutes. My own video at the beginning of the weekend course, was pretty appalling (which was good, since it left me so much room for fast improvement). I could go on about it, but if you are interested, you can learn more online. (FYI, I don't make any money recommending Total Immersion Swimming, I just love it.)
Now, I can swim for about 20 or 30 minutes without stopping. And I enjoy my swim completely.
My daily ocean swimming has enhanced my health, happiness and overall quality of my life here in Puerto Armuelles.
If you are looking to explore more ways to be "Happy in Paradise", I recommend giving ocean swimming a good, thorough try.
You may also find that it makes you healthier and happier too.
Thanks for reading
Reyn
Colorful town signs have been popping up all over Panama.
After much anticipation, Puerto Armuelles has one of its own! (see photo above)
Our beach town is coming up in the world!
Panama's national tourism agency, Visit Panama, is promoting Puerto elsewhere too.
I was able to photograph its banner promoting Puerto Armuelles (see photo).
The banner was hanging on an overpass outside of David, on the way to Puerto Armuelles.
It is not at the roundabout.
Many people assumed that the Puerto Armuelles sign would be installed on our new roundabout.
The roundabout, the only one in Puerto, is near the entrance to town. It was installed as one of the final parts of the road expansion from a 2 lane to a 4 lane road.
It seemed like this wide round expanse of lawn was custom-made to celebrate our town's sign.
Safety Issues Determined Location
But the design aesthetics of putting it on the roundabout lost out to safety concerns.
Not only would the two-word high sign hamper visibility, but that location would put pedestrians in harm's way.
There is no parking nor sidewalk at that location. People would have to cross the circle road, on foot, to take a photo of themselves by the sign. It is not a busy road, but there is enough traffic to make that potentially dangerous.
In fact, the sign was up for only a few hours and people were already climbing all over it to take town-proud photographs.
We are very much looking forward to taking a group picture by the sign ourselves.
I have been impatiently waiting for Puerto Armuelles to get its own colorful 3-D sign for quite some time now. I am quite happy that we finally have it.
Sign Location
The sign is located on the main road - past the roundabout - as you head into town.
More specifically, it is in the Los Angeles neighborhood, between Restaurante Enrique and ESPA.
There is plenty of space for pedestrians and cars to hang out by the sign. No need to endanger yourself by dashing across the street to take a photo.
Feel free to post your photos of the sign in the comments below.
M2 construction panels have the advantages of ease-of-construction and cost savings.
And one huge disadvantage, damage to the environment.
M2 is a popular building material. It is made of Expanded Polystyrene foam board (EPS for short) encased in a wire mesh.
EPS or Styrofoam
Most people know EPS as Styrofoam. Styrofoam is a brand name for EPS.
Styrofoam is created from polystyrene beads. Polystyrene beads are a petroleum-based plastic. The polystyrene beads are processed using chemicals that are steamed, causing them to expand, and creating the substance EPS.
We see EPS used every day as packing materials, coffee cups, to-go containers, and more.
M2 building materials
M2 is an increasingly popular building material. As I mentioned, M2 is EPS (aka styrofoam) panels sandwiched between 2 layers of wire mesh.
M2 building panels are versatile, sturdy and cost-effective. They can be used for a wide range of building elements: loadbearing walls, floors, roofing, stairs, partitions and curtain walls.
The wire mesh allows concrete stucco to be easily sprayed onto the panels.
This system provides a strong wall with a smooth concrete finish.
M2 in Panama
In Panama, M2 is commonly available as styrofoam panels.
The panels come in various thicknesses (2", 3" & 4" thick) and sizes (4' x 8', 10', 12'' & longer panels). (For a stronger house, it is best to use 4" thick panels.)
I have observed the use of M2 over the last 2 or 3 decades, both in the US and in Panama. Recently, I experimented with it in our Living in Panama model home.
Initially, I was attracted to the styrofoam panels because of its speed of assembly.
The panels allow for much faster assembly of concrete walls than is possible using concrete blocks.
Much faster than the typical concrete house construction, which stacks & mortars individual concrete blocks with rebar. Then the cement stucco is applied to the concrete block walls.
(Note: We actually used both M2 and concrete blocks in our Living In Panama House model home, so that we would have a side-by-side comparison of these two construction processes.)
With M2, instead of assembling hundreds of concrete blocks, one at a time, we simply had to:
Using M2 greatly reduced the assembly time compared to any concrete block construction project that I had previously participated in.
For the same sized wall, the cost of the M2 panel materials is higher than the cost of the concrete block materials. But the savings in labor and time more than make up for the higher materials cost of M2.
In short, it is clear that it costs less to build with M2 than with concrete blocks.
However, even before I had tried building with M2, I had had a nagging suspicion that it couldn't be good for the environment, especially at the beach.
Most of us have witnessed washed up styrofoam on the beach somewhere in the world.
Today styrofoam waste is everywhere on our planet. Not a pretty sight. This styrofoam waste poses a tremendous risk to our and our planet's health
Let's talk abit about the elephant in the room.
"What do we do with the off-cuts of M2 that we don’t need for the project?"
"How about the styrofoam "dust" that is created when you cut M2?
At our job site, I saw M2's fragile, crumbly, “styrofoam” nature first hand. This started me thinking hard about whether I should build with it again.
However, what made my decision not to use M2 again final was a family trip to the Chiriqui Mall in David. At the time, they were expanding the Chiriqui Mall to house a department store called, City Mall.
Chemical Snow
As I stood outside the half-completed building, I noticed an accumulation of about an inch of white, styrofoam particles in the gutters. Then I saw that the wind had blown the styrofoam bits into the parking lot and beyond.
Even the light gusts of winds produced by passing cars were enough for the ultra-lightweight styrofoam particles to swoosh and travel through the air.
Clearly, this “chemical snow” was a result of having sawn, ground, or otherwise cut the numerous M2 panels required to build the new City Mall.
It was also quite obvious that there was no plan on the part of the builder, or any other entity, to contain or dispose of this M2 debris.
In short, all these millions and millions of fine lightweight particles were free to be blown, or floated by the next rain, to the nearest drainage culvert, and then into streams and rivers (see photo). No doubt, within 1 or 2 weeks, much of this fine, polystyrene “snow” would be in the ocean. Where it will stay forever. Okay, maybe not forever, just a million years or so.
Obviously, this situation is not limited to Panama. The problem of disposal of EPS waste is worldwide. It is a great equalizer among nations since super lightweight EPS finds its way literally everywhere on our planet.
EPS/Styrofoam's Negative Ripple Effect
Although using M2 to build your home will save you time and money, it does have a negative and compounding ripple effect on the world around you. Check out the bullet points below to get a sense of EPS/styrofoam's impact on us, animals and our planet.
There is a surprising amount of waste using M2.
What do you do with all the window and door cut-outs of your M2 panels?
If dumped in a landfill, over time this fragile styrofoam will be pulverized into small particles. From there, wind and rain carry those styrofoam bits into the ocean.
What to do with any unused or extra M2 panels?
What about all the tiny powdered styrofoam in the grass on the job site?
Of course, you could store the unused M2 for future projects. However, this would begin to mitigate some of the cost savings. You must now also pay for the transport and safe storage of the M2. Or, you would have to give it or sell it to a responsible builder who knows how to handle the product safely.
It seems questionable to give it away to people who are not educated about the environmental dangers of the exposed styrofoam. Without proper care, this styrofoam will definitely make its way into our rivers and ocean.
What about remodeling and demolition of M2 walls? We all like to think that our work is “timeless.” However, the truth is that remodeling of existing homes is constant and shows no signs of letting up.
What happens when you sell your M2 home, and the new homeowners decide to remodel. Let's say you live in your M2 home for 40 years. That is a long time. However, in Styrofoam years, 40 years is only 30 seconds. All the M2 debris from the new owners remodeling your M2 home still has 999,960 years left to contaminate the environment, from top to bottom.
To be perfectly frank, the awareness among many Panamanians of the permanent environmental consequences of their actions is not very high. Just as Puerto Armuelles, feels like a beach town of 50 years ago, so too the environmental awareness movement in Puerto is far behind that of North America.
Concrete Block Construction Advantages
Cement block is the traditional method of building here in Panama. Builders here are reasonably competent at it. Concrete block is strong. With careful attention to detail, you can build a high-quality and reasonably-priced concrete block house.
Plus much of the waste from concrete construction is sand and gravel. Both are natural materials. This means that their disposal will have almost no impact on the immediate environment.
What’s more, it is easy and cost-effective to use any leftover sand and gravel to re-top your driveway or level the ground at the construction site. These materials ‘blend” seamlessly into the landscape, without causing any environmental harm whatsoever.
Negative Impact of Cement
Yes, cement products also have a negative environmental impact. For instance, cement production is responsible for 5% of our greenhouse gas emissions.
However, M2, also uses cement. M2 panels must be covered with a cement stucco to retain its integrity. So not only does M2 use toxic EPS panels, but it covered with cement.
Our Future Use Of M2
After using M2 and doing a lot of research on the product, we have decided not to use M2 again.
I believe that concrete block is currently the most ecological, economical way to build a house in our area.
We are happy to report that our next Living in Panama House will be built entirely of quality concrete blocks. We will use traditional steel reinforcement, grout with a solid concrete slurry and employ a vibrator to remove air bubbles to assure a high-quality result.
However, I always keep tabs on eco-friendly alternatives for building houses in the tropics.
There have been small-scale tests of straw and grass blocks and panels for construction in Europe and North America. Although, these products are probably not suitable for our humid, tropical climate.
However, it is just a matter of time, before more eco-friendly products are developed that are well suited for the tropics. Unfortunately, the oil industry tends to buy up any potential - non-petroleum-based - products that are developed. Therefore, it may take some years until alternative technologies for eco-friendly construction can become widespread.
However, it would not surprise me if bamboo can be used successfully to build excellent, affordable, and eco-friendly houses. It is being used successfully in nearby Costa Rica. (Check out our article on bamboo houses in the tropics.)
Perhaps someone in Puerto Armuelles will discover the next affordable eco-sustainable building material.
If you have any information to share about alternative building methods in the tropics, we would love to hear from you.
If you are an alternative builder who wants to move to the tropics, by all means, come and check out Puerto Armuelles. Perhaps you can help us to develop more eco-friendly housing solutions.
Thanks for reading,
Reyn
Check out our other "building a house in Panama" articles
