I waited until middle age to buy a sea kayak.
I often paddled directly from my summer home on Lake Superior. I also enjoyed multiple trips in exotic places around the world with my wife.
One of the things which really excited me about living in Panama was the prospect of exploring its coast line by sea kayak. I imported 3 boats from the States, along with paddles, spray skirts and camping gear.
Anyone who comes to visit us, as well as local friends, are dragged out for a trip.
My favourite area is the Boca Chica Islands south of David. I have kayaked to them from Puerto Armuelles. But usually we make the two hour drive from Puerto to Boca Chica for the put in.
From there we paddle 5 or 6 days, self supported, and camping on beaches wherever the mood takes us. The outer islands around Isla Parida have the clearest water for snorkeling, but all are beautiful.
The area is has great rocky headlands, separated by lovely sand beaches. Howler monkeys roar from the jungle and the occasional whale or dolphin can be seen in the ocean.
The land on the Pacific side is public property up to 20 meters beyond the high tide mark. When we camp, we usually we have a beach to ourselves. But when others are around, nobody has ever objected to our presence.
We have to carry our own water, about 5 litres per person per day. We often stock up at the home of a local, if we run low.
While most of my beach landings are gentle, I've had to become very adept at surf landings. Tipping a heavily laden boat and swimming it to shore is exhausting and can wreck the gear.
Before taking visitors on long trips, we usually spend a day at my place in Puerto Armuelles to learn how to control a boat in big waves.
That said, I've taken lots of novices to the protected water of the islands with nothing worse than a few bruised egos to report.
Note from Betsy: Robin & I once kayaked in Puerto Armuelles. Click to read about our paddle. It was a blast. I have always wanted to go again, not sure why I haven't made it happen.
Every trip is different; red sunsets, surprise storms, macaws in the trees above our tents, a fisherman with mariscoes (seafood) for sale, and a mango tree at the campsite.
The companionship of course is always great.
Robin Sare
Learn about Puerto Armuelles here.
But that doesn't mean we don't like the mountains too. We do.
It works the other way too.
We are running into more and more ex-pats who live in the highlands of Boquete or Volcan who “love the mountains”, but who also like the beach.
Some of the hype you hear about Panama, says that these beach and mountain lovers can quickly go back and forth.
For example, the hype says that in one leisurely Panamanian day, you take a dip in the ocean, a hike in the mountains and eat dinner back at the beach.
I decided to test that out.
Recently, while my family was away in the states, I decided to see if I could use the mountains as a quick get away from Puerto Armuelles.
I was particularly enthusiastic since it was the dry (hot) season, and there were no waves for surfing.
What I found was that all the hype is true.
I took off my flip flops, drove to Volcan, put on my hiking shoes, and went for a brisk hike. I was back in my car before dark and driving home - all in the same day.
Specifically, I did the following.
- Left Puerto Armuelles after lunch
- Drove up to Volcan (1-1/2 hrs)
- Enjoyed a 3-hour hike
- Returned to Puerto in time for dinner.
When I left the beach it was pretty hot (high 80’s). I was up in the cool mountains (low 60’s to 70’s) of Volcan in a matter of an hour and a half. It would have taken 2 hours to go to Boquete.
I continued this experiment and visited Cerro Punta, which is ~2 hours from Puerto Armuelles.
I drove to Cerro Punta, took a nice afternoon hike, then spent the night at the wonderful Hotel Los Quetzales.
I woke up, had a lazy breakfast, then went for a real jungle hike. I kept a look out for the beautiful and elusive Quetzal, but never saw it.
I could have returned to my hotel, checked out, and been back in Puerto Armuelles for a swim in the Ocean before dusk, but I didn't. I stayed another night.
Obviously, I have always known that this was possible. But we had never tested it.
Our getaways to the highlands and other places in Panama, tend to be for 4 or more days. We haven't done many quick trips. More often then not we stay contendedly at home in Puerto Armuelles. I think that now that our children are getting older, and more adventuresome, we may start to take more quick trips to the highlands. Or maybe just Betsy and I will just take off more often for a night or 2 and stay at one of the many great mountain hotels
It seems that I'm not the only one doing more quick visits.
With increasing frequency, we run into expats from Volcan & Boquete here our beach town of Puerto Armuelles. They are indulging in a weekend getaway from their mountain homes and staying at Heavenly’s Hotel or the Tsunami Inn.
It was chatting with these expats that inspired me to try a quick getaway myself.
They told me it was easy. They were right.
But I did wonder why they didn't go to the beaches somewhat closer to them such as Las Lajas, Boca Chica, and La Barqueta. They told me that Puerto Armuelles is just a “whole lot more real” than those more resort-type beach areas. In Puerto, you get the beach, but you also get a real beach town, with 20k residents, and all the services and community that this entails.
For more about Puerto Armuelles, go here.
March 23, 2013
David Fair A Good Place To Look At Cows & RelaxThere are many many cows on display.
Awards are given for the largest cows and bulls.
With steady climb in cattle prices lately the owners of these cows are feeling very wealthy.
Not only are cattle prices increasing but the agricultural land that they graze on is also going up in price. However, the price of cattle is not the main reason for the increase in agricultural land prices.
The quest for land for palm oil plantations is fueling the price increases. Many investors are looking to make money in the soaring palm oil trade, especially now that your trees can produce oil in 2 to 3 years instead of the former 7 years of the older and taller oil producing palm trees.
Horses and equestrian events are also popular at the fair. It is a good place to be a cowboy.
There are not only displays of all the agriculture in Panama, but many vendors of all sorts of flowers and plants. It is a good place to get a wide variety of plants for your yard and vegetable garden.
The Fair is also a great place to visit for crafts of all sorts. Panama is not a place overflowing with crafts. However, you can find them at the fair. Crafts, paintings, hammocks, hand made chairs, and more are for sale at the David fair. In fact there are so many vendors this year that all the rides were consolidated across the street from the main fair.
Of course, a fair has to have rides. That is the main reason my children clamor to go to the fair. There are also rides on ponies and cows for young children . If you want to go on the rides, keep in mind that the rides don't start until late in the afternoon.
There is also a place to view a wide variety of animals and birds, not just those that live in Panama. The fair used to have 3 ostriches on display. Those have "disappeared" in the last 2 years. There are also lots of animals native to Panama on display like margays, and a variety of tropical birds.
Technically the fair is over on Sunday night. However, if you are looking to buy plants you can usually do so on Monday morning.
Oh, there is also alot of music at the fair. It is a party every night of its 10 day run. We usually leave before the partying starts but for many that is when they arrive.
It costs $2 to attend on the weekends, $1 if you are retired Admission is free if you are under 8 years old.
The David Fair is definitely worth a visit.
[leadplayer_vid id="55FC757DB0767"]
Robin organized the trip.
A couple he knows, Annie & Danny, own a finca (farm/ranch) in the hills behind Puerto Armuelles. They live on the ranch some of the year, but live in town during the school year. They have caretakers and other workers take care of the ranch during the school year.
We gathered at Annie and Danny's house in San Vicente, where they also have a horse stable. From there we rode down the street a short way to the beach.
Then we veerred onto a wooded trail, for another short jaunt.
We headed up the river, up and down paths, we crossed streams a few times. Heading up and to the west/northwest.
I'd been that way on horseback before, but not for awhile.
Before we knew it we had arrived at Annie's finca. I think it only took us about an hour to get there, maybe less.
Already, I knew I would be sore the next day. I don't do much horseback riding these days.
A snack and then a hike.
The first hill was the steepest. We lost a couple of people who had expected to do a hike. It was a pretty steep hill to do in Converse All-stars.
After that, althougth we keept going up and up, it wasn't quite as steep. We went through cow pastures and enjoyed the views.
It was even better when we went as high as we could. .
This Photo Shows Only A Section Of Our ViewWe could even see Puerto Armuelles. We could pick out our friend Liz and Ron's house in Las palmas neighborhood.
We headed back down after drinking in the sight.
At the farm house we ate lunch and were asked if we wanted to milk a cow.
Como no. Why not!
I had never milked one before. It is much harder than it looks. I barely got out a stream.
But Annie could make the milk bucket sing with the streaming jets of milk.[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YSMK9ecoN70[/youtube]
Then came by daughter's favorite part of the trip.
She really wanted to gallop. Her, my, and Robin's horse obliged.
We had a blast. When we could we encouraged our steeds to go as fast as they could.
We had streams to cross, a few patches of mud and varying terrain. So were always able to go a speed, but when we could we did.
It really was very fun. My daughter was thrilled.
The gallop down the beach was particularly wonderful.
Next time, I think we will organize a trip with more time on the beach.
For more on Puerto Armuelles Panama, click here.
Have you done any of these?
As you eat each one, make a wish. 12 wishes for the New Year.
They also say that the grapes will predict how your year will be. For instance, if your 2nd grape is sour, then February will be a bad month. But if you get a sweet grape, that month will be a sweet experience.
Then count the number of seeds.
You use the number of discarded seeds to determine your lucky lottery numbers.
The lottery is very popular in Panama.
Don't forget to clasp some money in your hand while you are eating your grapes!
Having money in your hands at midnight will help ensure you will have money throughout the coming year.
This will ensure a new year full of travel.
It gives you good luck throughout the new year.
It will attract love in the new year
It will attract wealth for the New Year.
Sometimes people also pour water on a pound of rice. I am not sure what this signifies. Perhaps another cleansing ritual.
This will get rid of bad energy from the old year
The benefits of doing this are 3-fold: prosperity, work and health.
One of Panama’s unique New Year traditions is that of the Muñecos.
These life sized effigies are an old Panamanian tradition. These "stuffed people" are called many names:
They are stuffed with firecrackers. Then are lit and beaten at the stroke of midnight.
According to folklore, by beating and setting the effigies aflame, the sins and evil spirits of the old year are destroyed. Making way for good fortune in the new year.
The fire crackers are said to help drive the evil forces away, since ghosts are afraid of light and noise.
The Muñecos are usually made to look like well-known politicians or movie stars from the outgoing year. For instance, Fidel Castro, Irving Saladin (Panama’s first Olympic gold medalist, 2011), Celia Cruz, Betty la Fea, etc.
Sometimes people attached strings to the Muñecos so that they can sit on their porch and have the doll "wave" its hand to passer-bys.
Muñecos are especially common along the Pan-American Highway.
This ocean swim will "clean out" the bad things of the previous year and bring in good things of the New Year.
This year we are going to try to do as many of these rituals as we can.
Although I hope doing them at midnight is not required. We are usually asleep well before then.
Please share your Panama New Year experiences in the comments below.
Did we miss a ritual?
Mono Feliz is a wonderful, rustic eco-non-resort.
It is located at the very tip of the Punta Burica peninsula, in Panama's Chiriqui Province.
Staying at Mono Feliz is an amazing way to get back to your basic practice of “being”.
You are in a spectacular tropical jungle and at the apparent end of the known world.
Also there is a secret surf spot - actually, more than one.
A Relaxing & Rustic Place To StaySurfing on Punta Burica is very much worth the effort required to get there.
(Mono Feliz is nearly hour and a half drive from Puerto Armuelles, over some pretty rustic dirt roads. Or alternatively, a smoother and pleasant hour long drive on the beach - for most of the drive, but only during low tide.)
I had decided not to bring my surf board to Mono Feliz.
It was the off-season (early March), and the ocean in Puerto Armuelles was about as flat and calm as it is possible for the ocean to be.
Ideal for barefoot waterskiing, I'll bet.
I figured the surf conditions would be the same on Punta Burica as in Puerto Armuelles.
I was wrong.
When we arrived, I was surprised to find quite a bit of wave energy.
Albeit the surf was blown out by the wind.
I spoke to Michael, one of the sons of John (known better as Juancho) and Luzmila, the owners of Mono Feliz.
Michael told me that he and his brothers had been catching good waves lately.
I was surprised to learn that the boys claimed to be able to surf all year long out on the Island (Isla Burica).
Isla Burica is located a few thousand meters off-shore.
Isla Burica is reachable by kayak, surfboard, or in super low tides (-2), one can walk to the island.
At breakfast the first morning, Michael mentioned that they had surfboards for rent.
He invited me to join him for a trip over to the island to surf.
However, this was a family trip for me, not a surf trip.
Also, I seriously doubted that there could be a decent wave on the island, since the rest of the ocean around Punta Burica was as flat as a lake.
(According to the scientists at Magic Seaweed the swell was 1-1/2 feet)
I said no, I wasn't interested in paddling over to the island.
Michael, however did talk me into the lesser adventure of walking down the path five minutes to the nighbor Sean's “surf camp” .
There was reportedly a pretty decent wave at the surf camp as well.
I decided to join him for a short surf session there.
Though the surf was tiny, I was quite impressed with the form of the mini bay/inlet in the rocks in front of the neighbor's house.
It was obvious, from the clean mini lefts and rights peeling over the rocks at either side of the inlet, that this place must absolutely rock during the big wave months from May to December.
Despite the fact that the waves were small, and the thruster I had rented (a 6-2 with not much foam) made it tough to keep up any board speed, I had a fun time riding the small lefts (we were on the left side of the inlet).
I marveled at this ideal surf spot.
Michael, who is only fifteen or sixteen was also a super amiable surf partner.
As we walked back to Mono Feliz, I kept thinking to myself, “If only I had brought my Von Sol Shadow (my favorite fish) along."
Anyway, I reminded myself, this was a family vacation, and not a surf trip.
The following morning at breakfast, we met a couple of Juancho's and Luzmila's older sons.
Myron, who is about twenty five, and Edgar, twenty three.
Aside from really enjoying the good nature of the guys, I was beginning to be intrigued by tales about the surf on the island.
Myron had been away for a couple of days, and he was really eager to surf the island.
Edgar and Myron were enthusiastic to share the Island surfing experience with me.
So I grabbed my rented board, my sunscreen and followed them to the beach where we jumped into a huge, inflatable kayak.
With the three of us paddling, it took ten minutes or so to get to the island.
We beached the boat, and I followed the guys up a steep trail a short distance, before it flattened out, and quickly descended to the other side of the island, probably no more than two or three hundred meters.
As we climbed down through the trees, you could hear, then see the main peak, rising up, a perfect point, breaking left and right.
We got down to the beach, waded out into the water, and paddled out.
I was barefoot.
(I would recommend surf booties, since the rocks are slick and occasionally sharp.)
Myron and Edgar are natives and have super tough feet.
The paddle out was easy, as we were paddling around beside the main peak, and the surf was small.
However, the guys assured me that when the waves are big, they break further out, and there is a great tide rip to whisk one out to the break.
Myron was the first out, and he had already taken off on a couple of waves.
Just as it looked from shore, the wave consisted of a big, almost hollow drop, and then it quickly faded to nothing.
Still, Myron who was on a 5'-8” thruster was able to get down the line pretty well, including a couple of decent slashbacks.
In fact, Myron, who has been surfing the same peak for five years now, continued to take the drop, as far back as possible on the wave, and rode mostly rights for the next couple of hours.
Edgar also got some nice waves.
I hadn't surfed in months, and was on a borrowed board, but still I managed to make the drop and get a way down the line.
At the time I was only thinking about how much fun I was having.
But now I've decided to leave the Von Sol at home and bring my thruster to surf the island next visit.
If this is what the conditions are like when the Pacific Ocean is flat as a pancake, I could only imagine what the surf would be like when Magic Seaweed's buoy reading was say 6 feet, 7 feet, 8ft....
On the paddle back in the inflatable, Myron explained to me that there were a couple of other breaks that the brothers liked to surf, also reachable in the kayak.
You can also rent a fisherman's boat and go about fifteen minutes “around the corner” to the Costa Rican side of Punta Burica.
A place that is rarely surfed.
A place that always has a breaking giant of a wave, just offshore.
Reportedly, during the big wave months, this monster breaks for nearly a kilometer.
I can't remember which way it breaks.
Probably left, since it's on the Pavones side of the point, and the prevailing wave angle is for lefts.
As you can probably tell, I will definitely be going back to Mono Feliz during the swell season (May-December).
But, frankly, since Mono Feliz is so laid back, and there is so much for the kids to do there, I think we will make it a combined surf vacation/family vacation.
Surf in Panama is great.
It is particularly great to have such a wonderful place to surf so close to our home in Puerto Armuelles Panama.
Mid flood-tide, beach break, waist to chest high glassy, offshore breeze.
Decent waves for Puerto Armuelles.
I was out on my fish, and I had a bunch of fast little rides; a fine way to start the day.
My favorite surf spot is located a ten minute drive north from the center of town (twelve minutes on a bicycle).
The beach is called Corazon de Jesus. It is a small beach front neighborhood that is becoming popular with expats.
For that reason, it is probably the most surfed beach in town.
Corazon is a beach break, as are most of the local surf spots, with equal numbers of lefts and rights.
The waves there are usually clean, rideable probably about a third of the time in the rainy season.
Right now it is the rainy season.
The ocean in Puerto Armuelles has been know to be flat as a pancake for a solid month during the rainy season.
However, the rainy season is also when we get our south swell.
We have ten days of solid of 3-5 foot “epic” Puerto Armuelles conditions usually once or twice a season.
Guys come from as far away as David (an hour and a half) to catch our ideal surf conditions.
About that time, David's own main break Playa Barqueta is getting pounded by 15 to twenty foot close-out faces. Playa Barqueta has a full-on exposure to a huge Antarctic swell. It is an all -around nasty place to surf with super dangerous currents.
In Puerto Armuelles, under ideal conditions, we are probably riding 8-10 foot faces.
Surfing in Puerto Armuelles (Sarah pictured)The usual situation involves an offshore breeze in the morning that turns to onshore around midday - Except on cloudy days, when the wind never picks up and the surf stays good all day long.
There might be as many as a dozen surfers in town, mostly old gringos, mostly longboarders.
Most of these surfers have lived and surfed in Hawaii, California, or both.
Most of the surfer gringos are busy starting up businesses.
Ah.. Surfing in Puerto (Tegus pictured)(A few of the old guy surfers run the Hooked on Panama fishing lodge. They are often too busy with clients to get out surfing much.
Sometimes, however, they come back to town with fantastic stories about surfing the really big breaks out at the tip of Punta Burica
Punta Burica is about a half hour from town by boat, or an hour and a half by car.
There are witnesses who say the wave out there is huge, hollow, and breaks for almost two kilometers.
For guys who really want to chase big waves from Puerto, you need to drive out of the shadow of Punta Burica.
Punta Burica effectively blocks about eighty percent of the power of the prevailing southwest swell.
Surf in Nearby Pavones1. If you are looking for professional class surf, just hop in your car and drive the two hours to world famous Pavones.
Pavones is on the Costa Rican side of Punta Burica. It hosts some of the most amazing left handed barrels on the planet.
2. You could also charter a local Puerto Armuelles fisherman to run you out to the tip of Punta Burica for the day.
You can decide to stay out on the point with Juancho and Luzmila at Mono Feliz.
In season, you can get into some awsome waves out there.
My wife and daughter travelled all over Panama for three solid months when we first got here in late 2006.
We visited some of the top surf destinations: Santa Catalina in Veraguas Province, Playa Venao and others in Santos Province of the Azuero Peninsula. We have since spent time in Bocas del Toro.
The bottom line was that the best surf destinations had that sort of “cool” surfer vibe that just didn't attract us as a family.
In addition, most of the best surf places were no more than a collection of cabanas, a few restaurants, and lots of bars.
There was no sense of “place” to anywhere we visited.
That is, until we arrived here in Puerto Armuelles.
My wife and I moved from Seattle, Washington.
We did not want to lose the very livable small village lifestyle that Seattle's neighborhoods are so famous for.
Like Seattle, Puerto Armuelles is also composed of distinct and attractive neighborhoods.
Searching for Perfect Family Surf SpotPuerto Armuelles is a highly “liveable” town with an excellent sense of place, and a “good feel” to it.
My decision to become a Puerto Armuelles surfer was a decision to put our family's quality of life ahead of just surfing.
For our family, it was definitely the right decision.
For me, as a surfer, Puerto Armuelles has been a good choice.
P.S. If you are looking for surf conditions in Panama. A good place to look is Magic Seaweed.
