I personally recommend the Hotel Puerta del Sol.
I think this hotel offers very good value and comfort.
The rooms are large, well maintained, and air-conditioned. They are also are mostly quiet. You should avoid the rooms facing the hotel's street entrance (the east-side, I think), at least on Thursday, Friday, or Saturday nights. There is a very loud disco across the street. Other than these nights all the rooms are reasonably quiet.
Update: The disco has closed down. So any of the rooms are equally quiet.
Hotel Puerta del Sol is centrally located a block and a half south of the central park. Therefore, many errands can be run on foot. It is also an easy location to hail a taxi.
If you have a car, the hotel offers both underground parking lot and the secure covered parking area located by the hotel’s restaurant.
Hotel Puerta del Sol does not have a gym or a pool. However, I understand that there is a gym within a few blocks of the hotel. If anyone knows of a gym, or a pool, in David, that offers daily rates, please let us know.
The time that I stayed at Hotel Puerta del Sol by myself, I think the cost was $45 or so. The cost for the family is $55.
More Info
The Hotel has a good website, and the current prices are listed.
David is also conveniently located for day trips to visit Puerto Armuelles, Boquete, Volcan or Boca Chica, etc.
Sometimes even if you live in Chiriqui, you may want to stay the night in David. Those of us who live in Chiriqui, will go to David for all those items you cannot find anywhere else. Often, all those saved up errands turns into a very long day.
For example, if you are like us, you don’t drive to David very often. When we are in Seattle, we can run most of our errands in our own neighborhood. We don’t drive very much. Or, when we do drive, we take very short trips. We live a similar lifestyle in Puerto Armuelles. We can find almost everything we need, throughout the year, in Puerto. Everything from a very good grocery store, fresh fish and produce direct from the fisherman, or the farmer, to at least a half dozen building supply stores, to printing, copying, office supplies, etc.
We only go to David for things for some meetings or we sometimes need to buy parts for one of our cars that are not available at the frontera (Paso Canoas). There are also oversized (Architectural blueprint size) printers available in David. Full size plan sets are required for building permits in Panama.
There are 2 places to get oversized copies. Oficentro, a block east of the Central Park or Librereria Daisy, about two blocks north of Oficentro. (We are big fans of Oficentro. It sells a big assortment of art supplies, office supplies, jewelry, hair accessories and more.)
One of our David errands is PriceSmart. PriceSmart is Panama’s Costco.
We go there for various items, such as huge bag of dog food, Ghirardelli brownie mixes, frozen pizza, printer ink, Serrano ham, fresh mozzarella cheese, and more. When we go to PriceSmart, particularly if we are hungry and tired at the end of the day of errand running, we often come home with things that we really didn’t need. This is especially true because our family of 4 is more of cranky shopping committee at the end of a David trip, than a focused couple or single shopper.
PriceSmart is located on the highway Inter-Americana, 2 of kilometers south of the central part of David.
Occasionally, we have decided to spend the night in David after a long day of errands.
When we do our PriceSmart shopping trip that next morning we find we both don’t buy too much and don’t forget crucial items. The savings we gain from not over-shopping at Price Smart after a overly long day in David covers our hotel stay. So, a simple overnight stay in David can be good for family relations, even for one’s marriage. Amazing!
Plus you may find yourself needing to stay over night, or driving back the next day. Sometimes a meeting with a lawyer or notary in David, proves to be a 2-day thing.
The papers that were supposed to be available for signing quickly are not available. Or, the person running the agency where the papers are needed, suddenly remembers that there is one more “critical” document that needs to be signed in triplicate in order for a certain legal, bureaucratic process to move forward.
“Don’t worry: I’ll have the papers ready for you first thing in the morning”, says the smiling notary, or secretary, lawyer, etc.
We have all heard this on more than one occasion.
For those of us, who do not like to drive, the idea of driving all the way back home to Puerto Armuelles (1-1/4 hours, one way) only to turn around and do the trip again the very next morning, is well worth the $50, or $60 for a comfortable hotel. (Puerto Del Sol is an affordable & comfortable hotel in David)
The small capital city of our province does not provide much of an attraction for those of us living elsewhere in Chiriqui. However, it is occasionally necessary to make the trip to David.
By taking an extra half day to complete all of our tasks in David, we find we are much less stressed and tired. The trip is then even be enjoyable, or at least comfortable.
I mention which towns embrace Carnival later in this post.
Carnival festivities include both traditional Spanish & Panamanian features.
The Carnival festivities start in the morning hours in the central plaza or other open area. A popular feature are cistern trucks (culecos) that water-hose (mojadera) people for a few hours, along with loud music, entertainment, and lots of beer and seca.
La mojadera is a popular, fun, and wet Carnaval tradition in Panama. La mojadera is a spray of water meant to soak you. Its creation was obviously inspired by the hot tropical weather. We enjoyed being hosed down from a culecos in Chitre when we were there for Carnival years ago.
February and March, when Carnival happens, are the hottest months of the year in Panama. Typically, the cooler highlands of Panama don't celebrate Carnival as much and when they do, la mojaderas are not part of the celebrations.
You will find these culecos cruising the parade route, or you may get sprayed by an enthusiastic Carnival-goer wielding a water balloon, water gun, or a bucket.
Obviously, you should be prepared to get wet - both mentally and your choice of clothing. However, you can usually avoid a spray from a culecos if you pay attention. Of course, you most likely will welcome a good dousing.
There is a lot of dancing, jumping, popular music, people in bathing suits, contests, and more. This goes on until the early hours of the afternoon.
Then everyone goes home to rest and prepare for the parade and the real partying. Panamanians typically start partying late and go til the wee hours.
In the evening, the parade starts. The parades typically feature floats ("topones"), bands of mostly trumpets and drums ("tunas") and, of course, the Carnival Queen and her court in elaborate costumes.
The parades have a different theme each night.
You will find plenty of food to buy at street stands, and of course beer and other alcoholic beverages.
Just before sunrise on Ash Wednesday, the Carnival queen leads the last parade, a funeral procession. It is known as the Burial of the Sardine ("Entierro de la Sardina")
A symbolic sardine is carried in a tiny coffin by costumed mourners to its burial spot. This burial tradition is an import from Spain.
The act signifies the end of the partying and the beginning of the 40 days of Lent.
The majority of Panamanians are Catholics. Ash Wednesday is the first day of Lent. In Catholicism, Lent represents the 40 days that Jesus prayed and fasted in the desert before he returned to Jerusalem (Palm Sunday). 5 days later he was crucified (Good Friday). Then 3 days after that, he rose from dead (Easter).
El Entierro de la Sardina attracts large crowds that stay up all night to see Carnival to its customary close, which typically involves alot of fireworks.
Carnavales is mostly celebrated in
I have some information about the celebrations in both Las Tables and Panama City below. But first a word about Carnival in my province of Chiriqui.
I only know of 3 carnival celebrations in Chiriqui: Dolega, David, and Las Lajas.
Until last year, David hadn't celebrated Carnival for 16 years. Supposedly it was for unspecified security reasons. Now they do celebrate Carnival, but not after dark. The festivities are scheduled to end at 7pm, every night but Friday. Friday night will feature a big parade highlighting the Carnival queen.
From what I hear, even though it is late to the game, David's Carnival is by far the best of the 3.
Here in Puerto Armuelles, people typically head out to the beach on Punta Burica or have a BBQ at home. There may be a bull-fight ("barrera").
Note: Panama bull-fights aren't anything like a bull-fight in Spain or Mexico. The only good thing you can say about them is that no bull or cow is killed. The increasingly drunk "fighters" are more likely to get hurt than the reluctant-to-participate cows or bulls.
And of course, the bars will be open for business. The bigger bars like TisaMar will have music and charge admission. But generally it is a family holiday.
Most people leave Panama City for Carnival.
This is true for almost every holiday in Panama. People leave in order to back home to celebrate with their families back "home".
To give you an idea of the magnitude of the exit, a special carnival task force converted the Bridge of the Americas into a one way road out of Panama City starting at 4pm on Friday until at least 7 pm, with the potential to extend it til later. (see photo).
The plan also calls for an extra lane to be established into the interior.
In recent years, there has been a big increase in Carnival celebrations in Panama City. The government has put millions into this effort.
The parade route starts on Via Espana and then goes along the Bay of Panama known as Cinta Costera.
You will enjoy parades with the Carnival Queen and her court, floats, huge crowds and lively bands playing Panamanian folk music, salsa, merengue, reggae, and Caribbean-influenced, exuberant dance music. On Sunday afternoon there is the “pollera” parade, which features women and young girls dressed in the distinctive Panamanian national costume.
For the first few nights, evening partying takes place in clubs, bars and hotels. On Tuesday in particular, there is an extravagant parade with with ornate floats and partying that continues until nearly dawn. (see map image for events)
The small town of Las Tablas on the Azureo Pennisula is the is famed for its Carnival. If you want the most extreme carnival experience in Panama, you must go to Las Tablas.
Plan Ahead
You need to reserve your hotel a year ahead of time. Otherwise, you can do it as day trip from Santiago or Panama City. You can also catch a flight from Panama City to either Chitre or Pedasi and then catch a bus or taxi to the festivities. Las Tablas is about 4 hours from Panama City.
The Feud
Las Tablas carival features an ancient “feud” between Calle Arriba (“Upper Street”), the La Placita neighborhood, and Calle Abajo (“Lower Street”), the Punta Fogón area of town. Each group of residents competes to produce the most beautiful Carnival queen and the most elaborate and awe-inspiring floats. The competition is taken very seriously.
The Video
To better understand the Carnival in Las Tablas, including the feud and the intense year-long preparations, watch the video below. It is an excellent video done by Don Usher.
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We are not much for Carnival ourselves. I do like the la mojadera and I enjoy seeing the more elaborate floats. However, I am happier missing the whole thing.
But if you want to immerse yourself in the celebrations, get ready for a 4 day ride.
Lent starts on Friday with the coronation of the Carnival Queen and her attendants by last year's Queen. Then continues on til the early morning of Wednesday. The biggest celebration is on Tuesday, known as Fat or Shrove Tuesday.
This year, 2017, Carnival starts on Friday, Feb. 24th, and ends in the early morning hours of Wednesday, March 1. In 2018, Carnival will start on Friday, Feb. 9th 'til Wednesday, Feb. 1.
Happy Carnival!
Please share your carnival experiences in Panama. Comment below.
If you are Panamanian, you are much more likely to get away with it. Well, unless you have a neighbor who doesn't like you, or if the tree cutting damages your neighbor’s property.
It is the law.
Expats are expected to, and should, follow the letter of the law here. It is a sign of respect. A neighbor, or even a passerby, is much more likely to turn an expat into the authorities, than a local. Mostly, because it does seem disrespectful for foreigners not to follow the law.
You really do not want to gain a reputation for being someone who doesn’t respect the laws of your new country. It is a reputation that will only make your life more difficult.
Trees are considered a valuable resource in Panama. They are used for buildings and furniture. Their fruit and nuts are a valuable commodity as well.
And the reality is that deforestation is a real problem here. The climate of the Azuero Peninsula radically changed after they cut down most of their trees to expand cow farming. While your back yard trees are not part of the deforestation issue, the regulations to protect Panama's forests and tree resources, include you and your trees.
Panamanian law states that you must get a permit to:
You can request both permits at the same time.
You can be fined, if you cut down a tree without a permit. The more trees you cut down, the more you will be fined. Of course, someone has to complain for you to be fined.
The threat of fines does seem to keep people from harvesting trees for money, at least in areas where they are not likely to be seen felling a tree.
An Illegal Tree Cutting Experience. We had a neighbor, an expat, of one of our properties cut down 200 of our trees! The trees were all over 4" in diameter. We had planted them to block the sight of his cell tower. Unfortunately for him, the tees also blocked his ocean view.
While we were out of the country, without attempting to contact us, he decided to cut them all down. When we asked him about it, he claimed that his gardener said, "it was okay to cut them down". Yeah, it was the gardener's fault.
Although, we had ANAM come out and verify the number and size of the trees that he cut down, we did not press any charges. Given the number of trees, the fine would have been quite substantial. While were miffed and mystified about the incidence, but trees are easily grown here. So we decided to let it go. We simply replanted.
We have cut down a few trees in Panama over the years. Usually because the tree was in some way hazardous. For instance, when coconut palm trees get over a certain height, they are dangerous. A coconut falling from up high can kill someone.
Of course, we have also planted over ten thousand trees. We love both the ease of growing as well as the variety of trees here. We usually plant trees for shade, architectural interest, property boundaries, as well as fruit trees for their fruit.
Getting a tree removal permit is:
Required Documents
You must submit the following documents to your local ANAM office.
We typically ask our tree cutter to take his aserrador’s (logger) license to the ANAM (Environmental and Marine Administration) office to apply for the permits. We give him all the required documents above. It is much easier that way, as we discuss later in this post
You can apply for up to 5 trees to be removed per permit request.
ANAM in Puerto Armuelles: The ANAM office in Puerto Armuelles (see photo above) is 1 block south of the baseball stadium in Rio Mar neighborhood (on the same street as Pizza Pilo).
In addition, once you (or your tree removal guy) hands over all the required paperwork, you need to formally request an inspection of the property by an ANAM engineer.
The engineer usually comes out to visit the site very quickly: That day or the next. Then he returns to his office, fills out, signs, and stamps the permit.
So far, we have never had any request to fell trees on our property denied.
The property owner then goes to the ANAM office and pays the $13 permit fee. Make sure you leave with the permit in hand.
You then should give the permit to the person who is actually cutting down the tree.
Panamanian law requires that the tree felling permit be in the hands of the tree cutter, just in case of a surprise site inspection.
However, we have never had a follow up inspection in over 10 years of living in Puerto.
The whole process sounds arduous. In reality it is not.
Generally, this entire process can be accomplished in a day or two.
We have obtained our own permits many times.
We used to go to the office ourselves (well, Reyn usually went). Then it did feel arduous.
We find that having the guy who wants to do the tree removal (this applies to all kinds of contracts and contractors) apply for the permit himself, speeds the process up.
The worker knows the engineer. The engineer knows that the worker needs the work to feed his family. It makes it much less likely that there will be any bumps along the way. It is a “done deal”.
Of course, when we did it ourselves we never had a problem, though it did seem to take more time to get the permit. We don't want to discourage you from getting your own permits, but it is something to consider.
Our Tree Removal Guy - Lalo
Typically, we have Jose “Lalo” Samudio get the tree removal permit for us.
Lalo is a logger/tree remover here in Puerto Armuelles. Lalo is a licensed logger (“aserrador”). He also owns a tractor which is very helpful in the tree removal biz.
Lalo is also a competent woodworker, logger, backyard mechanic, and jack-of-all-trades. In short, Lalo is very handy guy to know. Plus, he has a lovely family, with a wife and three children.
In case you want to hire him, Lalo lives on a corner lot in the Coronado neighborhood, which is just north of the Corazon de Jesus neighborhood. Ask around and someone will point out his house.
Getting a permit will cost you $13 and about 2 days of waiting.
Most importantly, it helps you maintain good relations with both your neighbors and local officials.
So, on Feb. 15, Reyn and I will share why and how we decided to live in Panama.
And, most importantly, what it is really like to live here in Panama.
The Live and Invest Overseas (LIO) literature about the conference is a bit over the top.
But it looks like the hype could be limited to getting people to attend the conference.
They even magnify the benefits of the accommodations. For instance, in their conference sales page, they state you save money because their special hotel rate includes free breakfast and free wifi. They assert "Internet alone can cost you US$30 a day at some hotels!" However, I have stayed in Panama City countless times and have never been charged for wifi, and almost always breakfast is included in my stay. You can see their sales page here.
However, in no way has LIO asked us to sugar coat or hype our presentation. They simply asked us to share what we would typically share about living in Panama.
So that is our plan. Our talk will be the straight scoop on our experiences moving to and living in Panama.
If possible I will tape our presentation and share it with you, our readers.
Our plan is to attend most, if not all, of the conference.
Neither of us have ever been to an event like this. I am very curious about what is presented and whether it seems realistic. Also, we want to be around to answer attendees questions.
I will write about our impressions when we return.
Although, we have never been to a LIO (or any) Panama conference, we have been in communication with them.
Back in 2013, 2 young men from Live and Invest Overseas came to do a report on our town, Puerto Armuelles. You can read about Live and Invest Overseas' visit to Puerto Armuelles, Panama.
Also, Reyn and I once interviewed Lief Simon of LIO via Skype about his Panama experiences. We put together a video in which he talks about the cost of living in Panama.
Have you been to a conference like this one before?
What was your experience? would you recommend it to a friend?
Please share in the comments below.
Include the David leg in your flight reservation.
Do not make a separate reservation for the Tocumen airport (PTY) to David leg.
FYI: Copa Airlines is the only carrier that flies from Panama City Tocumen International airport to David. You can find out more about flying from Panama City to David.
Normally, Copa allows you only 1 checked bag of 20 kilos (44 lbs) on its flight to David.
However, if you have a reservation through to David, Copa will abide by whatever baggage allowance your flight from outside of Panama allowed. Most airlines coming to Panama allow bags of up to 50 lbs and often allow up to 2 bags.
However, you must fly out of Tocumen airport within 24 hours of your plane's arrival in Panama City for the other flight's baggage allowance to be honored.
I hope this tip saves you some trouble and money.
If you are going to Puerto Armuelles from David, I have described how to get from David to Puerto Armuelles on my site.
The Hotel Marbella in the El Cangrejo district.
We have tried other budget/mid-priced hotels in this zone of the city and they have all been pretty good. Hotel Riande Grande, Hotel Coral Suites, and Hotel Victoria to name a few. We have had good experiences at all.
We particularly like staying in the El Cangrejo district.
However, now that we are living in Panama half time, and Seattle half time, we find that we are traveling back and forth several times each year. It is good to save alittle money on a more affordable hotel.
The hotels that we have enjoyed most over the years, are getting to be out of our price range for such frequent, often multi-night visits.
Hotel Doubletree
For example, the Hotel Doubletree in El Carmen neighborhood is over $120 per night for the family. And sometimes there are issues with our reservation there. We think we have a room that includes breakfast, but they disagree. We like their breakfast because, unusually, they always serve a vegetable dish at breakfast. They say it is because of the number of Hindu visitors they have. (Another strike against the hotel is that my family much prefers to stay in El Cangrejo.)
Tryp Hotel at Albrook
The Tryp Hotel at Albrook Mall was one of our favorites back in the days when we took the overnight bus, which left from the Albrook Mall Terminal. However, now that air travel to David is getting more affordable, we don’t take the overnight bus anymore. And we like to take a connecting flight with Copa at out of the Tocumen airport, not from Albrook's airport. Plus the Tryp Hotel has changed hands, and it now costs about $130 per night for a room for the four of us.
Affordable Choice
Another big reason for seeking a more economical hotel is that I sometimes travel alone. At times I need to be in Puerto for a construction project, while the rest of the family is in Seattle for a school or other obligation.
For me, I just need a clean, quiet room to get a restful night's sleep.
Hotel Marbella has served me very well for the past two solo trips. A single room costs $38.50.
This property would appeal to someone who loves horses and a ranch lifestyle.
Also it is noticeably cooler up on this finca than down at sea level.
We have only recently listed this property. The adjacent ranch owner had wanted to buy it, but he recently informed us that he cannot swing it.
Find more photos and information on this finca here.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
We were on our way to visit our friend Juancho at Mono Feliz.
Shawn and Shena were just putting the final touches on their surf/stand up paddle board camp.
It was spectacular. Shawn was out paddle boarding when we arrived. Shena was hanging out with their 2 kids.
We ended up staying for much longer than we intended. It was a very comfortable place and we all had a great time sitting around and chatting.
The aerial video below was taken of and around Burica Surf. It was taken before our visit. As you will see the main building is still under construction. The water and conditions look sweet.
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You can find various wave opportunities for both beginning and advanced surfers, as well as for beginning and expert stand up paddle (SUP) boarders. You can rent a board at Burica Surf for $20/day.
You can also paddle out to Burica Island (or Isla Burica) in about 25 minutes. It can be leisurely circumnavigated in an afternoon.
My husband has enjoyed surfing at Burica Island before and wrote about it.
Burica surf is at the very tip of Punta Burica. It is in a remote area with views of Burica island.
It is about a 1-1/2 hour drive from the beach town of Puerto Armuelles.
From Puerto Armuelles, every hour there are small buses to the village of Bella Vista. (These buses stop after 6pm.) Bella Vista is about 2.5 kilometers from Burica Surf. Which means it will take you about 30 minutes on foot or 15 minutes by car to get to Burica Surf from Bella Vista.
If you want, you can ask the Burica Surf folk to come and pick you up at the airport in David or in Paso Canoas. Paso Canoas is the town at the border between Panama and Costa Rica.
For detailed directions to get to Punta Burica & Burica Surf, visit our Punta Burica hotels page.
Now the accommodations are even nicer than when we visited. Check out the photo below of their main building. I downloaded it off their website, buricasurf.com.
Rooms
Lodgings at Burica Surf are rustic, yet comfortable.
There is no electricity or Internet. Which means it really is a wonderful nature retreat without distractions.
They have 4 rooms and 3 dorms.
Food
Meals are available for purchase. It is only $30 a day (3 meals).
All meals are served in a “family” style in the upstairs dining area overlooking the surf breaks.
To reserve your accommodations, you must pay a 50% deposit.
You can cancel your reservation within 24 hours of booking your accommodations.
They offer group rate and package deals.
Electronic bank transfer, Pay Pal, and cash (USD).
You are welcome to show up without a reservation, but then they can only accept a cash payment. (Remember there is no internet or electricity at Burica Surf)
You can find out more, including their contact information, at their website: BuricaSurf.com.
If you make it out there I'm pretty sure you will have a fun and relaxing time.
As Shawn says, "There's always something to ride!"
Please let me know how you liked your visit there. Comment below.
